Missing Bolts on Monkey Face Aid Route...

[scott_harpell]

Missing bolts on face

[Bill_Simpkins]

Use the existing holes.

[matt_m]

Go with good 3/8th bolts. Clipping bolts is clipping bolts - "preserving the nature of the route" by putting in gear that will be bad in ten years is just plain dumb. Like a poster above said - if you want to scare yourself - go play on hard, natural scary lines. Making something artificially un-safe is silly. "Hey - I just led that route on-sight at 5.11 X!" "Wait - that whole route has great gear?!?" "Yeah - but I only used a single 8.1mm Ice Line so it was super sketch!" C'mon - If this argument held water "real" people would be pounding pins on the Nose using Hemp ropes.

 

Big fat stainless is the way to go - years from now people will respect you more for being a steward than a cheap bolter.

Now I would say that using cammo hangers would be responsible so you don't have this shinny line going up the rock...

[shapp]

Maybe in another 200 years after a few more bolt replacements to enlarge the holes up to about 1 inch or so, we could take a few bolts out and have a great 5.15 mono cranking pitch, like beating some of those knife blade yos cracks into free routes. But seriously, use the same holes and go up a size with a good stainless 5 piece. If the thought is to preserve the route then we will have to yank to good belay bolts and add some button head with some paper thin leaper hangers like where there when I first got on the climb back when the world was just an onion.