[TR] Mt. Logan- E. Ridge 5/11/2004

[syudla]

Climb: Mt. Logan-E. Ridge

 

Date of Climb: 5/12/2004

 

Trip Report:

11 consecutive days of outstanding to decent weather saw us fly in from Kluane, bypass several camps, drop caches, and from 12000 go light (everything is relative!)to the east summit in 3 days, and return to Andy's.

The lower knife edge was in poor condition with sun rotted ice on the south but nice firm alpine ice on the north. The upper knife was not an issue. Very high winds (60 and gusting higher)on summit day but with relatively warm temps it was entirely managable. A great trip!

 

 

 

Gear Notes:

Ya need ta know how to make good snow anchors or be prepared to leave lotsa gear on descent.

 

Approach Notes:

Fly from Andy Williams at Silver City.

Edited June 15, 2004 by syudla

[rbw1966]

Nice job. Pics?

[syudla]

Pics?

 

At the drug store

[Stemalot]

Pics as in do you have any good photos to share? Nice TR.

[rbw1966]

Pics as in they are being developed at the drug store. Or at least thats how I interpreted his response.

 

I'd love to see them too.

[Winter]

Pics as in do you have any good pharaceuticals?

[MCash]

Nice climbing Doug. Where are you and Jeff off to next?

[syudla]

Hey Martin

Didn't know you hung here.... but probably should've.

Next month i'm off to Waddington but Jeff has to work so drummed up some interest from a colorado friend. Hope he can match Jeff's weather juju...

 

For the rest, too many random drug tests at work so that's all well in the past. Just getting them developed.

[syudla]

OK, there's a few pics in the Canada gallery

[dirtysouth]

Anyone interested in the East Ridge could check out my TR on mountainproject - http://mountainproject.com/v/international/north_america/canada/106457887

[fourteenfour]

you should add the photos here so it's searchable via TR's