Interesting..

[Peter_Puget]

Given that someone asked recently about adj. daisy chains and there is an ongoing debate about screamers.

 

link

[cj001f]

Given that someone asked recently about adj. daisy chains and there is an ongoing debate about screamers.

Since when is one person yelling without any proof against a chorus of others a debate? (Too much FoxNews PP!)

[Freeman]

FWIW after reviewing the impact forces on a static tie in (sewn daisy chain) I started using my shorter Purcell Prusik for an adjustable way to clip anchors. I keep it girth hitched to my harness and adjust to the situation. The nice thing is that in a fall it will be dynamic - even if you forget to unclip, climb above your anchor, then fall(fall factor 2). I use 6 mm cord since I also use it as a standard prusik but 7 mm works just as well.

[fenderfour]

FWIW after reviewing the impact forces on a static tie in (sewn daisy chain) I started using my shorter Purcell Prusik for an adjustable way to clip anchors. I keep it girth hitched to my harness and adjust to the situation. The nice thing is that in a fall it will be dynamic - even if you forget to unclip, climb above your anchor, then fall(fall factor 2). I use 6 mm cord since I also use it as a standard prusik but 7 mm works just as well.

 

How is a fall onto a purcell dynamic? Isn't perlon static cord? I can't imagine that the Prusik would slip enough to be considered a dynamic fall. You could buy a section of the new Mammut 7.5mm twin rope and make a purcell out of that.

[Freeman]

Good question. Is perlon static? I could be wrong about the shock absorbtion (other than the prusik knot slipping).

 

Obviously I've never fallen on my purcell...

[dbb]

If I remember correctly, prussiks begin slipping at 1000lbs of force. Seeing as the percel prussiks around two pieces of perlon, I'd imagine that number to be even lower. The main reason why rescuers use percels is because they are full strength adjustable daisies (essentially), and can be used for ascending a rope. I don't know if they are generally regarded as some sort of screamer though.

 

... and nothing is static, it's all just low-stretch baby

[scott_harpell]

****Until you are a couple of pitches up on a wall, the belayer must pay asiduous attention the leader.*****

 

Ahh... Then what should a belayer do??

 

 

Start drinking...

[mtngrrrl]

I just started aiding. On my last climb, I made an effort to lengthen the Easy Daisies before testing the next piece so that if I fell, it would be onto the rope. Working that movement into the order of things just took some process refining. For me as an aid newbie, the benefit of the Easy Daisies is pretty clear. Maybe I'll work on other systems at some point.

 

I had not heard about Easy Daisies snapping. I knew it was bad to take a daisy fall, but that's scary.

 

Thanks for the cross-post, Peter_Puget, but shouldn't this go into the new Aid Climbing Forum ?

[EWolfe]

I would prefer The New Rappelling Forum , but to each his/her own!