Jump to content

Lightning Crack Topout?


MCash

Recommended Posts

Visited Peshastin for the first time on Saturday. Our last climb of the day was Lightning Crack on Grand Central Tower. Man, that second pitch is a nice lead. Anyways, the second pitch is supposed to be 5.8. The crack section seemed to be in that range, but the topout had me puzzled. Are you supposed to go directly up the slab where that piton is, or go up the flared crack on the right, or around to the left. Directly up the slab seemed to be 5.10, unless you pulled on that piton. I figured it out, but was wondering what the correct way of doing it is. The rock is horrible up near the rappel anchor. Fortunately the rest of the climb was great. Any ideas?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 6
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Great topo! Thanks. I didn't even see the bolts for belay #2. Must be getting blind. That explains how it is rated 5.8.

 

My reaction when our 50 meter rope reached the ground on the back side with 1 foot to spare was quite enthusiastic. wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Aw right, mebbe I'm getting too old for remembering things quite right. I still seem to remember going up and right, but iceguy's topo would seem to indicate that my brain has gone to shit. cantfocus.gif

 

Weird. I remember going right up a sandy slab (a bit scary) to the top as well. Definitely not 5.10 though; more like 5.8. Guess I'm nutzy too.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The belay bolts for the first pitch are sort of around the corner to the left. They are not needed as there is a horizontal set of pockets that will take Aliens and Tricams.

 

The crack on the second pitch is the one that gives the route it's name. I remember the only hard move of the second pitch was right off the belay. After that it is easier than 5.8. The crack curves to the right near the top, if I remember correctly.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.




×
×
  • Create New...