Lightning Crack Topout?

[MCash]

Visited Peshastin for the first time on Saturday. Our last climb of the day was Lightning Crack on Grand Central Tower. Man, that second pitch is a nice lead. Anyways, the second pitch is supposed to be 5.8. The crack section seemed to be in that range, but the topout had me puzzled. Are you supposed to go directly up the slab where that piton is, or go up the flared crack on the right, or around to the left. Directly up the slab seemed to be 5.10, unless you pulled on that piton. I figured it out, but was wondering what the correct way of doing it is. The rock is horrible up near the rappel anchor. Fortunately the rest of the climb was great. Any ideas?

[sobo]

Martin,

IIRC, you stay with the right-trending (flared) crack; i.e., up and right after the last "zig". Rap off the backside, but you musta figgerd that out, cuz yer here.

[sobo]

Aw right, mebbe I'm getting too old for remembering things quite right. I still seem to remember going up and right, but iceguy's topo would seem to indicate that my brain has gone to shit.

[Dru]

"Grade I+"

[MCash]

Great topo! Thanks. I didn't even see the bolts for belay #2. Must be getting blind. That explains how it is rated 5.8.

 

My reaction when our 50 meter rope reached the ground on the back side with 1 foot to spare was quite enthusiastic.

[Alpinfox]

Aw right, mebbe I'm getting too old for remembering things quite right. I still seem to remember going up and right, but iceguy's topo would seem to indicate that my brain has gone to shit.

 

Weird. I remember going right up a sandy slab (a bit scary) to the top as well. Definitely not 5.10 though; more like 5.8. Guess I'm nutzy too.

[catbirdseat]

The belay bolts for the first pitch are sort of around the corner to the left. They are not needed as there is a horizontal set of pockets that will take Aliens and Tricams.

 

The crack on the second pitch is the one that gives the route it's name. I remember the only hard move of the second pitch was right off the belay. After that it is easier than 5.8. The crack curves to the right near the top, if I remember correctly.