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Posted

I haven't done it this season. But it is a must do climb, with very little or no fixed gear, which makes it that much better. I thought it to be a way better climb than it's popular neighbor LC to the left.

 

I don't know what your startegy will be, but there is a bivy ledge on top of pitch 8. We began climbing at 10:00 on Sat. with no fixed lines, bivied on top of 6 with a portaledge, then topped out by 12:00 on Sun.

 

There are no blank sections above pitch three, unless your referring to a section of free climbing; and it is best to link pitch 7 and 8 with a sixty meter line.

 

It could go clean, and can definetely be done in one day. As far as iron goes, just bring along a few blades and arrows, and maybe one or two heads.

 

Good luck and have fun! bigdrink.gif

Posted

Offset aliens and cam hook mastery will guarantee a clean ascent. You might want to wait until June as you will encounter some wet sections (esp. down low) this time of year. Take a comfy harness or a ledge for the 4th pitch belay unless you don't like your kidneys or enjoy cherry coke colored piss. Also, consider the alternate bolted start that Mr. House put up a few years ago; much more enjoyable (beta: all bolts and 1 #4 camalot placement). I attached a topo.

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Posted

And don't park your car at the bend in the road across the street from the trail; WSP has identified towing cars parked here a great source of revenue (in addition to patrolling for a silver snugtop.gif with OR plates... bitches...). Its better to drop one partner at the bend with the gear and have the other drive up to Blue Lake campground and park and walk back down (its only .2 miles). You'll be glad when come off anyways as the bigdrink.gif will be much more readily accessible.

Posted

As far as I have heard yes. I have parked there a number of times for E. side LC routes and never had a problem, but a buddy of mine last year had to bail off TRL and barely got back to his truck before getting towed. You could call DOT and ask them, but I get the feeling WSP might not give a shit. 0.2 miles isn't that far.

Posted

You don't need mashies. If you think you need a head placement, you need to top step or reevaluate your placement options. The fish headmaster kit is a great head kit (when you get into it). The BD physical store in Utah generally has all the leeper hooks in stock; get two of the 3/4 inch, two of the 1/2 inch, and 1 micro. The fragile flake hooks are nice, but you won't need them on this route.

Posted
You could call DOT and ask them, but I get the feeling WSP might not give a shit. 0.2 miles isn't that far.

 

Not that it takes too much away from your point, but it's like 1.8 miles from Blue Lake TH to faint trail up to Liberty.

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