Terry_McClain Posted May 10, 2004 Posted May 10, 2004 Climb: Mt. Stuart-Another Stuart Glacier Couloir Date of Climb: 5/8/2004 Trip Report: Nolse and I managed to pull off a successful climb of Stuart Couloir on Saturday in a single push. We underestimated the approach time needed and did not hit the base of the route till 6am. We post holed up a snow gully to get up onto the Stuart Glacier which became a real effort with every step. At this point the sun was up and hitting the upper section of the Couloir and I cursed myself for not getting an hour earlier start. Fortunately, as the morning progressed clouds came in and temperature stayed cold. At the top of the gully we roped up and crossed the glacier to the base of the couloir. The bergschrund was easily crossed on the right and the snow became firmer as we ascended up. This was the point where I had a hard time not grinning as it was just too perfect. I had one tool in each hand in cane position and the ice step where the Couloir narrowed down was there almost before I knew it. Snow turned to ice and a couple of exciting moves put me over the ice step and back onto snow with bucket steps again. I pounded a picket in at this point for a little piece of mind. The west ridge notch was in site now and looked fairly close. The calves were starting to inform me that they were getting tired and that this was hard work. Upwards to the notch we went, seeming to take way too much effort. Eventually it did arrive and the break at the notch was well earned. Clouds came in heavy but the rock stayed dry. Nolse did an excellent job leading out onto the north side of the West ridge route. It still has a lot of snow on it but that does not detract from the enjoyment. By the time we hit the summit we were getting snow and hail. Visibility varied, but we could see the descent route occasionally and marched down towards the false summit. The route to the Sherpa descent proved smooth and more straightforward than I had anticipated. The upper portion of the Sherpa glacier was easy plunge steps, but as we got lower the snow got softer and towards the bottom it was pretty miserable going. The descent down to the Stuart Lake trail was the most miserable part. It seemed every 5th step either Nolse or I would punch into a hole in the snow. I think our descent took as much or more time than the approach. All worth it though. The climb had everything in it that I ever ask for in the perfect day in the mountains. Gear Notes: 1 tool, 1 3rd tool Approach Notes: snow holes suck! Quote
mvs Posted May 10, 2004 Posted May 10, 2004 way to go! I also took a "third tool" on that climb, worked out great. The snow below the Sherpa Glacier 'schrund was pretty tedious for us too. Finally got a ~300 foot glissade in, but mostly postholing. Quote
Terry_McClain Posted May 11, 2004 Author Posted May 11, 2004 MVS, I was originally packed with 2 tools till I read your TR. Thanks for the beta- the third tool saved me 8oz and worked perfect! Quote
Alex Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 did you see danielpatricksmith in the boulderfield?? Quote
John Frieh Posted May 11, 2004 Posted May 11, 2004 Nope... but chances are I was too busy looking out for elephant traps on the way out that I walked right past him. Is he in there scoping what I think he is? Comments DPS? Quote
To_The_Top Posted May 12, 2004 Posted May 12, 2004 Terry asked to have the pics posted here. Stuart couloir Stuart couloir ice step ahead Stuart couloir past ice step Stuart west ridge Stuart-Sherpa glacier decent Quote
John Frieh Posted May 12, 2004 Posted May 12, 2004 I posted a few of the pictures I took on the climb in my gallery. There is one of the berg (as of 5/8) for those of you considering this climb. Quote
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