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jawon

The Oasis at Tieton River

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Love the cracks at Tieton River but I heard there is a new sport climbing area now... The Oasis? Can anyone confirm and provide directions and any beta?

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The following information is from Mark Glidden who put up one of the new routes last year.--catbird

 

The Oasis area is an area that was developed by Jim Yoder and Marlene Ford and friends last year. They have developed a couple of other areas in the Tieton area as well. They hope to have the new guide published and in the store soon.

 

It is just across the road from the Windy Corner camp ground. To get there, drive past the campground and park at the turn off, just before the bridge. The trail takes a diagonal path up to the climbs. Look for some survey tape that I put there last year. There was some survey tape along the way to mark the trail. I am not sure if it is still there.

 

There are some 5.8 climbs, some 5.10, and one that Jim thought might be a 5.12. In all, there are around 14 routes. Most of them are mixed bolt and gear climbs. It is a great area to visit if you want to avoid the crowds. The columns are small in this area. They are around 10 to 12 inches in diameter with interesting patterns.

 

If you go to the prow of the formation, to the right of most of the climbs, there is a new route called "The Fan." It is thus named because the route goes right through the middle of what looks like a giant upside down fan. You can see the fan from the road. It is 5.8 with 14 clips. You will need either two ropes or a 60 meter rope to rap from the first anchor.

 

The second pitch is mixed Trad up to 2.5 inches. Most of the loose rock has been removed but some might have loosened up over the winter. That area of the cliff is called Jack O'Lantern wall because the fans on the wall look like the eyes and nose of a Jack O'Lantern. It was named that by Aron Glidden.

 

The wall to the left is called the wall of many faces. Jim named that wall. If you do decide to do some climbing and do some FA's, be careful of the areas that have not been cleaned. BTW there are lots of chances for FA's there still.

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On a side note, is Tieton pronounced like "Titan" or "Teton"? I've heard it pronounced both ways. I've always pronounced it "Teton". thanks.

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Thanks for the info and the pics. So anyone have specific route beta? Particularly in the 8-10d range?

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To the right of the cave..best climb at the crag.

Start right side of cave ...steep...coming onto the face 10D-11A thumbs_up.gif

5.8's on the left one is extreamly choss the other is ok

a couple of 5.10's to the right of the cave one has a wicked second clip 10C-D

The other is 10-B and 100ft long A little scary pull'n on detached small pillars, but long and cool.

All bolted no xtra gear needed

Gear start to bolted climbs are down on the right.

DICK wave.gif

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