matt_m Posted April 5, 2004 Posted April 5, 2004 FYI - REI Seattle got its aliens back in - 5 deep in every size - I swear there's a deal with the devil to have that many in one place - gonna get me a second set when I get the $$. Even cooler - we now have (carry) the BLACK alien - TWO as of Sat PM. first time i've ever seen one in a shop. I've started working with people to see if there's anyway to stock offsets - keep people posted... but don't hold your breath Anyone know local shops that have offsets? Climb On had a set early last year and I'm still kickin myself for not getting them. Quote
skyclimb Posted April 5, 2004 Posted April 5, 2004 Gear Heads in Moab had offsets a few weeks ago... Neptune mountaineering in Boulder probably has some as well, being as Colorado Custom Hardware(aliens) is based out of colorado. However REI has a huge contract with colorado custom hardware, so REI gets precedence over smaller shops. REI doesn't seem to specialize enough in rock gear though to carry offsets? Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 5, 2004 Posted April 5, 2004 Here's a noob question. Are offsets as useful for free climbing, as they are for aiding? It seems to me that in the flaring cracks for which they are designed, the successful placement depends on the piece staying at a certain angle. They would be less able to swivel around to different directions- less active. True? Not True? Quote
Matt Posted April 5, 2004 Posted April 5, 2004 My experience is offsets are best used in pin scars so having them on your rack in places like yosemite is nice. They are useful for free climbing on routes like Serenity Crack which used to be aided and was nailed into submission-- ouch my toes! Quote
catbirdseat Posted April 5, 2004 Posted April 5, 2004 I've seen natural cracks in various places that flare. They appear to be the product of erosion rather than fracturing. Examples include one on the summit block of Concord Tower, various places on Mt. Erie, the eighth pitch of Dreamer in Darrington, and Windward Direct on the Sickle at Peshastin Pinnacles. Thus far, I have been using either nuts or tricams for such cracks. Quote
jkrueger Posted April 5, 2004 Posted April 5, 2004 Neptune mountaineering in Boulder probably has some as well, being as Colorado Custom Hardware (aliens) is based out of Colorado. The CCH tag on the last alien I purchased gave a Wyoming address. Besides, unless it's perishable, I don't think proximity has much to do with availability these days. Quote
Coondog Posted April 6, 2004 Posted April 6, 2004 Unless you only climb splitter cracks without flare, the alien offsets are great. I've got 3 of the offset micros, and they're awesome. taken one 20'-er off the smallest, which it held without moving at all. all this free banter and i don't even work for cch... if you find them around here please post where. thanks- --cd. Quote
tomtom Posted April 7, 2004 Posted April 7, 2004 Anyone know local shops that have offsets? Climb On had a set early last year and I'm still kickin myself for not getting them. Last month, Marmot in Bellevue had a couple offsets in the two smallest sizes. Now I do. Quote
Ryan Posted April 8, 2004 Posted April 8, 2004 Neptune mountaineering in Boulder probably has some as well, being as Colorado Custom Hardware(aliens) is based out of colorado. CCH is based out of Laramie, Wyoming. Quote
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