ken4ord Posted March 25, 2004 Share Posted March 25, 2004 Jim most definitely. The Gunks rocks for exposed crag climbs. There is no other place that I can think of where you crank through 5.6 roof with feet cutting out and everything. Canary is way more tame than a lot of climbs out there. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bronco Posted March 25, 2004 Share Posted March 25, 2004 I'd just ductape a bat hook to a micro edge and climb on! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 25, 2004 Share Posted March 25, 2004 (edited) You could just belay at that spot where the "secret #4" goes instead of the Saber bolts. Then you wouldn't have to worry about ropedrag either. But you wouldn't be able to take as cool pictures of the infamous Canary stepout. Shit! You guys are making me want to go climbing . Can't we just talk about Iraq, Pub Club and poo some more? Edited March 25, 2004 by chucK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jja Posted March 25, 2004 Share Posted March 25, 2004 So I'm going to be in leavenworth this weekend and might do this climb. All this beta is a bit confusing though. Will Matt, cbs, alex, or greg please go up there and mark all these pro opportunities with color coded tape? And then post the key here on this thread. Then I'll print out this thread and tape it to my forearm before starting the climb. Let's see, green tape = #.75 camalot with single runner. Hmm, purple = #4 with double. I'll send for sure Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted March 25, 2004 Share Posted March 25, 2004 You don't need any cams for pitch two. Just clip the bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mvs Posted March 25, 2004 Share Posted March 25, 2004 I just got back from installing a handline/fixed rope to get us all safely around the little corner Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted March 25, 2004 Share Posted March 25, 2004 I just got back from installing a handline/fixed rope to get us all safely around the little corner via ferrata Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
catbirdseat Posted March 26, 2004 Author Share Posted March 26, 2004 I was going to stick a phony bolt hanger with cut off bolt to the step across using chewing gum and watch people clip it and make the move with confidence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whirlwind Posted March 28, 2004 Share Posted March 28, 2004 its been awhile and i know i was timid myself the fist time i did it but if i remeber right its like a 5.7 move and bigg jugs when u get out there, you guys are just thinking way too much about it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ken4ord Posted April 4, 2004 Share Posted April 4, 2004 I was going to stick a phony bolt hanger with cut off bolt to the step across using chewing gum and watch people clip it and make the move with confidence. Dood that is not even funny. It would be really easy to make a bolt hanger look like it is anchored to the rock. On other note for a way cool Canary variation. Climb Old Gray Mare (same start then left of the Canary corner). Heady 5.8 climbing up the vertical arete to a belay below COD. From there follow the the horizontal right trending crack look for a ring pin and cut onto Canary's second pitch. Some great exposure traversing out above the roof (L to R). Also hopped on Saber since I had never been on it since there is always parties there, I wasn't to impressed with the climbing on it, don't really understand why it is so popular. For a better way up that section of the cliff go left of the corner and hop on Directissima way better climbing and good pro. IMO feels easier than the awkwardness of Saber. From the Saber ledge you can finish up Saber or what I did is shoot straight up (not climbed often little graungy but good climbing). COD is next when I get up there again. Anyone know what the bolt on the lip of the Canary is for? Is there a variation that pulls the roof? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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