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  • 4 weeks later...
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did this route this weekend. tried for one day from the valley floor, but murphy's law and the gumby factor (it was my first grade VI and my partners first wall of any sort) only made it to pitch 17 - big sandy. spent a very cold night sitting there at big sandy and topped out yesterday. the more direct option for the final pitch is very wet, but can be avoided.

 

the first six pitches can be done very quickly - something like 3 hours. once you hit the chimneys, the climbing becomes harder. the pitches above big sandy seemed hard because we we tired. to do it in a day, get to big sandy by 3 pm or so.

 

we woke up at 3 am, hiked the death slabs in the dark, and started climbing at first light.

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