Ropes?

[Ryan]

I'm heading to Washington in May, and I plan on having only one double rope (probably a 60M 8.1mm Beal Ice Line) that we'll use on Rainier for glacier travel, and then on any other route we do- who would advise having a second rope along, or would just the one do for alot of the moderate routes in the range (West Ridge of Forbidden, for example)...what does everyone use normally?

[Alpinfox]

If you're sure you ain't gonna fall, an 8mm would be OK, but in that case you don't need a rope at all, eh? An 8mm would be fine for bringing up your second and rapping, but I wouldn't want to lead near my difficulty limit on an 8mm. I think it would sap some of my confidence...

 

For a "one-rope-to-bind-them-all" solution, I'd consider a 9.5mm (or therabouts) dry rope. It would be rated for single falls and wouldn't be dramatically heavier for the glacier bidnez. If the weather sucked here in May (likely) and you wanted to go cragging at Leavenworth/Index/wherever and try some harder routes, you'd probably feel better with a single rope.

 

Edited February 26, 2004 by Alpinfox

[backcountrydog]

if your doing anything where u thought u might fall,(rock rts, forbidden etc) just double up the rope and u've got 2 strands. and still only have the weight of 1 double rope. this method has worked for me lots. actually thats what we used on w. ridge of forbidden now that i think of it.

[Ryan]

Ahh...I never would have thought of that, awesome idea! Thanks! And Alpinfox, thanks for the suggestions- I'm talking about it being the only rope that we'll "have" in the context of it being the only rope that we'll be carrying with us when we have to make approaches and haul the rope on longer routes where we may or may not end up belaying the whole thing. I have 2 60m 10.3mm single ropes that I'll have out there with me, but those will sit in the car unless we decide to go cragging.

[Rodchester]

I use a 9.8mm Single dry rope by 60 m for alpine rock climbs. I use a thin 8mm cord for glcaier travel.

 

So that said I'd bring both to Wash and use the tin rope on glacier climb (Rainier) and then a thicker true "single" rope on alpine climbs.

 

Thats said, if I know the route and a chance of a fall is slim I have a 9mm by 50m dry that will use on alpine rock routes that is fine for crossing glaciers as well.

[Ryan]

Cool- I'm trying to find the balance between the two so I can use it on a route that requires both rock climbing travel. Thanks for the advice!

[Alex]

depending on the routes you want to do, you might just bring the 8.1, and then 50m of like 6mm rap line.

 

West Ridge of Forbidden, for example, doesnt require anything particularly beefy as far as rope,..most of the route is like 4th/5.2. However, a 50+m rap line might come in handy.

 

If you are planning something more difficult, like Direct South Buttress South Early Winters, or N Ridge Stuar w/ Gendarme, I would bring a full-on lead line.

 

Alex