mixed in bc

[glassgowkiss]

in the past couple of years several hight quality mixed lines went up around whistler/hope/duffy/marble.

yesterday i had a chance to get my ass completly kicked on husume buttress (sp?) above black comb glacier. "29 forever" was the first route there, it would be a complete nightmare during snowfall, as big spindrift was pouring out of all the gullies yeaterday (quite heavy snowfall). skiing with leather boots and a pack is sucky. the climbs are a complete scratch fests, so no need for screws. full set of cams, stoppers, some pins are in order. there are 5 or 6 climbs on that buttress, with several variations. 29 forever is the easiest. they are no bolts, so be ready to battle with gear.

don, you should include this area in your guide, since the access is so easy. to buy a back country pass (32.10cdn) you are required to show a snow showel, avalanche beacon, skins and a probe.

one note- these pitches take several hours to lead, so it would be very hard to do a complete line in one day. at 6000ft elevation and facing north they will stay in shape way into sping

the farm is a very good crag to get strong and fit. you access it from a ski run.

Jia was busy on Duffy. In Right Rambles he did 2 new high quality routes. the top dihedral has 6 bolts now. there is number of climbs waiting for fa.

[specialed]

Nice. There's a good article on these routes in a CAJ of Fern's I was looking at. I don't know from what year, but maybe Fern or Don does.

[fern]

1996

 

the John Baldwin Backcountry Whistler map has a more detailed topo and route descriptions for Husume buttress.

[glassgowkiss]

96! there were 3 lines going up last 2 winters. and on the top there are some active projects at this point. but the place is has easy access, hard climbing and is the best alpine training i found so far around here.