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Posted

Climb: Hood-Reid HW

 

Date of Climb: 2/11/2004

 

Trip Report:

Nice conditions on the Reid. Varied between step kicking in the soft to front pointing on the hard. Probably more soft than hard right now. Wandered alot, played on some rime and did a great top out right between 14 and 14a in the book. One steep step to gain a rime-mushroomed ridge with plenty of exposure.

 

Looking forward to reports from the tea party on Yokum. Anyone want to share?

 

Gear Notes:

Took rope, didn't use it.

 

Approach Notes:

Palmer and environs can be thin crust over 6-10

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Posted

Thanks for the kick steps up the Reid. Smokeshow and I were the guys just below you. Sorry for screaming at you when you were just getting onto the exposed ridge. At the time I was getting fed up with the chunks of ice raining down on us. You dislodged a few big ones.

 

We cut hard right at that point in an attempt to climb the main ridge. The rime on the steeps was in terrible condition. It just fell off with sugary snow underneath it. We double backed onto the line you took to the summit.

 

I spoke with a few of the guys from the Yocum gang. Conditions on it were not good. Nothing consolidated. They all bailed.

Posted

A group of three of us also climbed the RH yesterday. We saw your tracks and were wondering where they were going. All that debris was crazy, eh? I ended up getting whacked pretty hard several times. I'm sure glad I didn't forget my helmet . grin.gif though I think another unamed member was pretty peeved he dropped his blush.gif The wind played tricks with it until it ended up down in the river valley.

Posted

Pat, that's definately Jason and I in the above pic. That's were we cut right in an attempt to climb the West Rim proper. We got turned back at the spot where the sun is hitting the mushrooms above and left of us.

Posted

I must admit I did have book knowledge for most of the route, so I would only claim a beta-flash.

I'd say its pretty hard a vue, especially past the third clip.

Anyone know of a recorded onsite of this beast?

Posted

yeah dude he posts here too. shit went down about 2 years ago. I think he's straight kick'n it in AK now but he was pulling down hard on the westside back in his PDX days. rime ain't no thang

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