Thielson

[sethclimber]

Anybody know what time of year is best for climbing Thielson?? I've heard that its best on snow because the rock is so crumbly in summer.

[wayne]

Thielsen is great anytime! The rock on the standard rt and the west ridge is actually very good. The only issue is do you want the bad scree to be covered with snow? If you want a big time alpine route try the McGloughlin Memorial route ,it is like something in the North Cascades with bad rock at times.14+ pitches with routefinding issues too. While we are on the subject has anyone else out there done the McGloughlin Memorial?

[Alpinfox]

Thielsen is a piece of cake anytime of year. I passed some wanker "Mountaineers" near the summit once in plastic boots and all roped up. No snow to be seen and the climbing might be upper 4th class!!

 

Don't bother with a rope and pro unless you are really inexperienced or you want to carry extra weight for climbing purposes. Anyway, it's a fun jaunt. Enjoy.

[Gordonb]

I climbed it about 25 years ago and remember some 4th class near the summit, and we did it with no gear. The scree was a pain in the butt on the way up, but made a fun decent.

[Gimpy]

I climbed Theilson last year, in the summer. One person in our group had climbed it before and talked it up as a major undertaking. I had checked some books and what I read didn't match this dudes list, but decided to carry the gear he said we would need anyway. I had never climbed with this guy before or I would have known what a wanking wimp he was.

 

We sloged up the slope loaded with gear and soon I noticed we were the only ones with packs. When I got to the top and looked at the 4th class scramble and people going up it in tennis shoes I wanted to kill that dude. I had rock shoes and a harness in my pack that was just added weight and bulk. He showed up half and hour later with his friend and their wives and started roping up, busting out the gear, and asking who wanted to make the "lead". I just about puked. I scrambled up, looked around till I was bored, and headed down in time to pass these wankers "lead climbing", shoes and all.

 

The moral of the story, don't trust some body just because he said he's "been there, done that", research it yourself.