Thinker Posted February 6, 2004 Posted February 6, 2004 (edited) edited: NOW I can't even find the damn photo, so words will have to do... A photo in an older (last year) climbing rag showed a guy climbing a crack that wandered back and forth (maybe 10 feet horizontally), and the cams were all clipped short so that the rope held the cams in essentially a horizontal orientation. 3 finger size cams between him and his belayer, all the same orientation. Discuss. Anything wrong with that. Any rules of thumb? I'll go look some more for the photo. Edited February 6, 2004 by Thinker Quote
Thinker Posted February 6, 2004 Author Posted February 6, 2004 OK, here it is. Page 49 of Climbing's 2003 Photo Annual. I'm all doped up on Vicodin and pain, so I don't really care if it IS in spray. Spray away. The same thing can happen on a vertical crack. A cam can be placed and clipped short, and as the climber passes the cam the rope and pull it into a horizontal orientation. the next time that cam moves could be during a fall, as it is yanked violently into a downward orientation. All that movement bugs me (and others too) and I tend to put slings on almost all my cams. But I see SO many people in person and in photos who skip that step. What would Gollum do? (WWGD?) I'm outta here for a CT scan. Later on..... Quote
HRoark Posted February 6, 2004 Posted February 6, 2004 I get three things from your description: 1. He'll have rope-drag issues 2. The cams (some anyway) will walk out of the original placements. 3. If he falls the cam he impacts will rotate downward. Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 6, 2004 Posted February 6, 2004 A picture would be most valuable here. Please someone, offer to resize it for him. Quote
HRoark Posted February 6, 2004 Posted February 6, 2004 A picture would be most valuable here. Please someone, offer to resize it for him. Somehow I still don't think you'd get it. Quote
catbirdseat Posted February 6, 2004 Posted February 6, 2004 A picture would be most valuable here. Please someone, offer to resize it for him. Somehow I still don't think you'd get it. I know what Gollum would do. He'd SEND! Quote
EWolfe Posted February 6, 2004 Posted February 6, 2004 The real lesson here is don't climb with Gollum on Vicodan. Quote
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