To Bolt or Not to Bolt?

[Dru]

Is it still a flash if someone was showing a video of a climb you later do at a party but you didnt watch the video, Ok you did for a minute but you focussed in on the cute girl spotting and not the hard boulder problem Joe Shirtoff was sending? how about if you worked the first move once six years ago but couldnt do it and since then thanks to the kine you have forgotten that incident?

[Rodchester]

I'm with peter Puget....in a line can be protected with trad gear leave it be....any bolts set as protection for the leader on Ingals (and others) should be chopped and rechopped.

[rayborbon]

Watch what you say here rodchester Jon might remove your abiltity to post

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by rayborbon:

Watch what you say here rodchester Jon might remove your abiltity to post

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Is abiltity what Gates has two of on his chest?

[rayborbon]

I think those are two tits on his back

[jon]

I might as well have tits I think I just gave birth in the bathroom.

[Uncle_Tricky]

As of last fall, I was surprised to find two new bolts installed basically alongside two old bolts on the second pitch of Canary. I'm not sure how many bolts the FAs put in, but I was surprised to find what appeared to be a sloppy upgrade job (not pulling the bolts you're replacing) on such a classic.

 

[ 04-27-2002, 02:20 AM: Message edited by: Uncle Tricky ]

[pope]

quote:

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Originally posted by Uncle Tricky:

As of last fall, I was surprised to find two new bolts installed basically alongside two old bolts on the second pitch of Canary. I'm not sure how many bolts the FAs put in, but I was surprised to find what appeared to be a sloppy upgrade job (not pulling the bolts you're replacing) on such a classic.

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Haven't done the second pitch recently, but I remember something like what you describe, and I remember the bolt(s) being placed on obviously convex (read "weak") features. Would a solution be to install 1/2" bolts in the old holes? Maybe remove the "upgrade" bolts? I've been told you can drill out an old snapped-off 1/4" jobber and put a 1/2" bolt, but I ain't never tried it.