oldgoat Posted December 25, 2003 Share Posted December 25, 2003 Merry Xmas Merrycans, Just a short update to let you know the state of ice climbing along the Duffy and elsewhere. The Rambles: Still in and still fun! Carlsberg: Solid WI5 along the right hand side. The Tube: Getting hacked out and hollow. Loose Lady: See previous posts. Red Wall Wanderers: Appears to be in. Everything else looks like it has melted out or is only partially formed. In Marble Canyon ICBC is in but thin, as is the Dihedral. Everything else is @ the TR stage. Pink Cadillac is now fully bolted and awaits its FA (tentative grade is M8). Further to the south, Oregon Jack is in and fun as always. For those of you that wish to bring your cows ice climbing with you, you should probably check out this website Mad Cow Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 26, 2003 Share Posted December 26, 2003 so, oldgoat, wanna share the tale of what became of the ranched ice at M/C from last year? the parks guys lacking a sense of humour, was it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oldgoat Posted December 27, 2003 Author Share Posted December 27, 2003 Best of the Season to you to Don! Just put it down to overwhelming inertia, lack of planning, and old age. Are you going to be in the area over the holidays???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted December 27, 2003 Share Posted December 27, 2003 I see in the MEC new routes book that Craig McGee and Beeker climbed onto and up the hanging dagger of the unformed Shreddie on Dec. 20 with a few bolts to give a "M6 WI?". I don't know how hard the "WI?" pitch is really supposed to be either Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 27, 2003 Share Posted December 27, 2003 old goat: planning several days, with new years eve in lillooet - ought to be a hoot! i'll give u a call... dru: wasn't there a tale floating around a few years ago about guy doing exactly the same thing? of course, then there was bruce kay's remark, as he and his partner contemplated exactly the same exercise, that if the dagger snapped off "it'd squash you like a bug!" having been up there to unsuccessfully try shreddie [i couldn't keep my tools in the puke, and fell off...], i'd have to agree. there is no good place to hide at the belay - the whole goddamm column looms above you like a nightmare. gotta say the rock behind the column looked pretty climbable, tho...) maybe craig and beeker were able to sidle out right and get a belay on the rock. whatever, a strong performance - no surprise from these two! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fern Posted December 27, 2003 Share Posted December 27, 2003 John Millar and Conny Amelunxen climbed Shreddie in the '99/'00 winter. I believe they also installed one or more bolts at that time for some mixed whatnot. I don't remember what condition the 'dagger' was in that year. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Don_Serl Posted December 28, 2003 Share Posted December 28, 2003 tks for the reminder, fern. i checked the new MEC route book: craig and chris installed a bolt belay off to the right, which they say is safe from falling ice. they report 8 bolts on the rock face, then u get onto the ice. it's not clear how this differs (if at all) from what john and connie climbed in 99/0 - the dagger didn't touch down that year - in fact, it's likely only touched down once, in early '96 when "shreddie" was 1st climbed by john chilton and jia condon. it had a cpl repats that year too. i consider the mixed line a completely different route than "shreddie", which was climbed completely on ice. provided you could get around the pillar from right to left (which i failed at), there was a reasonable groove up the left, then a hard traverse right was required, then "good grade V" to the top. cheers, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_Certa Posted January 1, 2004 Share Posted January 1, 2004 Update from 12/27 - 12/30/2003 Rambles - still in. ICBC - 1st two pitches - thin but in. 3rd pitch looks in. Loose Lady - only climbed approach pitch; upper pitches look in, but cone to base of mushrooms is hard to pro. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul_Certa Posted January 1, 2004 Share Posted January 1, 2004 I posted some pictures in a photo album "Lillooet December 2003" under my user name. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lambone Posted January 2, 2004 Share Posted January 2, 2004 Had 4 great days in Lillooet...2 with iceguy and 2 with Mrs. Bone. It's nice and cold up there now and most everything is coming into fine shape. All 3 pitches of Icy BC are in, and the pillar variation to the right of the 3rd pitch looks solid. It looks like the Diversons flows have been taken out. Wait for Spring is living up to its name. TR'd No Deductable, fun route(on toprope)! Got to lead Deeping Wall for the first time...fun route, its in great shape and takes good pro the whole way. Even the bottom half of Honeyman was frozen up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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