beefcider Posted April 10, 2002 Posted April 10, 2002 I'm heading to the Peshastin Pinnacles on friday and was wondering if there are any good TR anchors with easy approaches there? I haven't been able to find a decent map of the routes there, does one exsist? Quote
Peter_Puget Posted April 10, 2002 Posted April 10, 2002 Have you tried Viktor Kramar's Leavenworth Guide? Quote
max Posted April 10, 2002 Posted April 10, 2002 The Leavenworht guide can be a little fishy trying to figure out top ropes... Obviously not comprehensive and maybe not applicable to what you can/want to do, but here are some suggestions: Climb the well bolted 5.8 on the front of Grand central tower. three .10-.11 slab topropes from there. Climb Potholes (5.7, well bolted) and toprope potholes (direct) direct, washboards (.10c ?) with a directional. Make a slightly spooky traverse (5.0, no rope) to the top of Austrian slab and climb any number of slabs .9-.10c (?) Climb some (lame) route to the top of Orchard rock and tr the 5.0 slab or the .10b hand/fist crack. Don't bother with the climbs on the se face/chimney. Junk. It is possible (but really crumby and sketchy) to walk to the top of some of the climbs on Sunset, but it sucks. Peshastin might not be the best place for topropes. 1. Topropes piss people off and (at least a few years ago), Peshastin can be pretty crowded. 2. There just aren't many climbs that are both condusive to top roping and worth climbing at peshastin. In my opinion there's more and better tr'ing to be done in icicle canyon or vantage. Obviously expect to deal with some yahoo's in the icicle. Hit vantage early in the morning, drink and raid un-attended coolers in the afternoon, then hit sunshine again for a plesant sunset. I don't have a good idea of what you're looking for or what your abilities are, so sorry in advance for any insulting/useless/self-glorifying spray. Oh yeah, make sure to have a good time! Quote
Gerg Posted April 10, 2002 Posted April 10, 2002 Might want to call to make sure that the park is open. It wasn't a few weeks ago. Greg Quote
avypoodle Posted April 10, 2002 Posted April 10, 2002 The park was open and deserted on Saturday. The tunnel route on orchard rock is nice and pretty well protected (bring smallest cam you have for the last move) Quote
max Posted April 10, 2002 Posted April 10, 2002 Hey out of curiousity... Do you know why it was closed? Quote
pope Posted April 10, 2002 Posted April 10, 2002 quote: Originally posted by max: Hey out of curiousity...Do you know why it was closed? State budget constraints as a result of the initiatives written by Tim "I'm-Not-A-Man". Quote
nierman Posted April 11, 2002 Posted April 11, 2002 Budget constraints are probably right on. They say they close it for the winter, but obviously they have a pretty liberal interpretation of when winter starts and ends if you have noticed the opening and closing dates the past few years. Quote
dtw Posted April 11, 2002 Posted April 11, 2002 quote:--------------------------------------------------------------------------------Originally posted by jkassidy:State budget constraints as a result of the initiatives written by Tim "I'm-Not-A-Man". -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Nope, not yet...was closed for the winter until March 15. Quote
nolanr Posted April 12, 2002 Posted April 12, 2002 It's been my experience that in general Peshastin is less crowded than the Icicle. I agree though, it's probably not well suited to top roping. We were out there 3 weeks ago or so, definitely not closed for the winter at that point. Quote
Uncle_Tricky Posted April 12, 2002 Posted April 12, 2002 Yup, as others have said, Peshastin is open for biz. Got fumigated there early this week. As we were up on the rock, they started spraying the orchard next door. A strong westerly wind coated us with a white, bitter-tasting fungi-herbi-insecticide powder. Probably not too healthy, but it cleared my flea and tick problem right up! Quote
pope Posted April 12, 2002 Posted April 12, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: Yup, as others have said, Peshastin is open for biz. Got fumigated there early this week. As we were up on the rock, they started spraying the orchard next door. A strong westerly wind coated us with a white, bitter-tasting fungi-herbi-insecticide powder. Probably not too healthy, but it cleared my flea and tick problem right up! Dude, I think you're the victim of the Alkeedas. I heard on the Art Bell show that they've discovered how to atomize Ebola and Anthrax. And down at the gym the other day I was in the shower when I heard a couple of young men speaking in a language I couldn't understand....gastons, dynos, gri-gri.....thought it was French of Italian, and then I heard one of them say, "Dude, I'm going to Peshastin to SEND THE SICKNESS". It makes too much sense now. I should have called the FBI, but at the time, I assumed it was only the jibberish of what Frank Zappa would call "teen-age wind" (aka "sport-speak" in the climbing world). [ 04-11-2002: Message edited by: pope ] Quote
beefcider Posted April 12, 2002 Author Posted April 12, 2002 thanks for the info, not sure where we're going to go but I'll grab the leavenworth book anyway. Quote
beefcider Posted April 13, 2002 Author Posted April 13, 2002 We went there today and there weren't many people there at all, maybe three other routes being used. We ended up going with the 5.8 on the GCT and didn't see any of the hazmat suited, tractor driving sickness senders but I have SEEN them before. Beware: there was a guy lugging a camera around and following us. we stopped near the top of one of the rocks to look down onto the parking area and he took my photo. I asked what his deal was and he said "I only took a photo of your butt". He ran before we could kick his ass. Also, some of the bolts are loose on the 5.8 and that rap ring looked ancient. I left a pair of sewn slings and new oval biners up there on the truly mega anchor. That's right, free gear! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted April 13, 2002 Posted April 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by Uncle Tricky: Yup, as others have said, Peshastin is open for biz. Got fumigated there early this week. As we were up on the rock, they started spraying the orchard next door. A strong westerly wind coated us with a white, bitter-tasting fungi-herbi-insecticide powder. Probably not too healthy, but it cleared my flea and tick problem right up! Most likely was bentonite...the same stuff that makes all the orchards the white crack like color [ 04-12-2002: Message edited by: Szyjakowski ] Quote
DLunkman Posted April 13, 2002 Posted April 13, 2002 quote: Originally posted by beefcider: Also, some of the bolts are loose on the 5.8 and that rap ring looked ancient. I left a pair of sewn slings and new oval biners up there on the truly mega anchor. That's right, free gear! I tell ya man. Better safe than sorry. Whats yer life worth? We did the same thing. We were climbing snow creek wall today. The weather came in and we had to bail from like 3 pitches up. We ended up leafing a #1 Camalot, 4 stoppers and a bunch of slings and biners. Anybody know the easiest way to bail from the top of the crux pitch on outer space? That's right, free gear! Better safe than sorry though, thats what I figure. Quote
freak Posted April 14, 2002 Posted April 14, 2002 rad bouldering circuit near orchard rock! all kinds of heel hook dyno finger pocket twists, stand back I have a gri gri! Quote
beefcider Posted April 14, 2002 Author Posted April 14, 2002 That's how I feel, better home than dead, even on an easy rap. I'll leave behind all kinds of gear if I even think the anchors are suspect and in my opinion they always are. That's right: follow beefcider for the free gear. Quote
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