sk Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 maybe I don't suck quite as bad as I thought???? Quote
daler Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 I don't think smith is stiff, I just think alot of other places are soft. I would like to know where those 13/13+ plus climbs that fellow did so quick are at. If they are at Maple canyon or Red River gorge than I would understand. those places are way soft. Rifle is similiar in stiffness to Smith but a way different type of climbing. It all depends on what you are strong at. 13- took me way more tries at Rifle than at Smith so I think rifle is stiffer. Rudy, what ya think? dale Quote
RuMR Posted December 2, 2003 Author Posted December 2, 2003 I think smith is on the money for grades...it is an old area, not new...it is also a "technique-specific" area...so if you are good at standing on positive feet and toeing into pockets you will find it easier...it also helps to climb there a lot...the more you climb at an area the more it fits in... Smith is easier by far than index/yos/jtree and about the same as rifle and stiffer than the NRG/RRG... Quote
Gordonb Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 I learned to climb in the gym, and I think Smith is easy. I flail on cracks and I got my ass kicked at j-tree. I think the nubbins at smith reward the gym climber because the moves are very similar. Quote
willstrickland Posted December 2, 2003 Posted December 2, 2003 My Smith experience is limited to three trips and about 15-20 routes from .10a to .12c (it's not a chestbeat if it's that f'in weak, OK!). I've climbed at a bunch of areas around the US. My feeling is that Smith grades are middle of the road. The climbing is a little more delicate, especially above mid .11 or so, than many areas I've been to. It's one of the few areas I've climbed where the predominance of climbs are dead vertical. Many other places seem to be just off vertical with an occasional overhanging section, or way steep. In my mind, the benchmark for stiff grades has always been Yosemite, the Gunks, and Josh. You could probably throw Seneca in there as well. Red Rocks sport routes and this place in AZ, Jacks Canyon, are pretty soft. Everything else just kinda falls in the middle and I attribute them feeling a little different because my own strengths/weaknesses and/or how much I've been climbing lately, how I feel that particular day, etc. It sounds like the guy who posted the thing was just more suited to other types of climbing. I can usually onsight harder grades at areas that are real steep with good holds than I can at a place like Smith, likewise at places with short, hard cruxes compared to endurofests. Everyone has their natural strengths and weaknesses. One possibility is that many of the harder climbs at SMiff see alot of traffic and get polished and spooged with shoe rubber, making the 200th ascent a little rougher than when it was graded. Quote
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