glassgowkiss Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 Kananaskis as usual- a lot of ice this year. besides the usual like R&D, Pararel Falls, Kidd falls, there is Sadamme Insane formed for the first time in many years. This route has a lot of character, but if it keeps snowing it will put it out of condition. Amadeus is in with M5 start. Whiteman is gushing water, Redmen soars has no ice (you can do it but it will be harder and scary). Did probably a new route up there. about 60 m upstream from the rapel on the right side of the canyon. take a full set of cams and stoppers + some kb's and spectre. About m5/6, all natural gear, about 55m length. There is an ow/chimney on the right side of the canyon, there is a large tree above on the ledge (rap from this tree)you start this route about 10 upstream from the line of the tree. Terminator touched down, replicant is formed up, so is La Goutte. go and nail it while they last. 10 years after is in, Borgeau right was climbed several times. Cascade is very thin. don't have info what's up north. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cracked Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 NICE! I'm jealous. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 isn't that chimney line "Green Man Gronks" or is that the other way in the canyon from Whiteman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 14, 2003 Author Share Posted November 14, 2003 It's definetly not Green man- it's on the left side of the canyon, much closer to whiteman. our line is only 60 m up from rap station above approach step (about 300m from whiteman). it's called "Racially Motivated". Talked to a local guy, who knows most of the routes there and he thinks it's a new route. i should have a picture or two next week. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted November 14, 2003 Share Posted November 14, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 19, 2003 Author Share Posted November 19, 2003 more ice updates. terminator is down, looked like sea of vapors was forming. everything on mt dennis is in. guiness, stout, high test are rather thin, so they won't last late in the season. carlsberg is fat, so is kronkenburg. pilsner has 2 pillars touching down. masseys is in, but superbock and cool spring didn't form. a lot of mixed lines in mt stephen are in. silk tassel was formed. now mind snow conditions- when i saw these routes the avi danger was low. now with new snow most of these lines will be out. ghost formed up quite well. fist and a fang is in fat. again, a lot of these routes are early season and tthey won't last past a couple of chinooks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 any idea what shape sorcerer or murchison is in? Â how much snow fell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 19, 2003 Author Share Posted November 19, 2003 check www.live-the-vision.com or www.gravsports.com. i just wrote what i saw personally or had first hand info from good sourse. they pretty much form every year, so my speculation would be they are in. but that's just my speculation. it's supposed to get quite cold there towards this weekend. avi conditions here http://www.avalanche.ca/weather/bulletins/index.html. looks like typical rockies snow suck. terminator should be ok. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
layton Posted November 19, 2003 Share Posted November 19, 2003 anyone know is bergeau LEFT is in, all I've seen are reports from the right hand falls. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glassgowkiss Posted November 19, 2003 Author Share Posted November 19, 2003 even if its't in it must be past it's prime. many routes are getting effected by the sun, so you might end up climbing detached thin shield. plus the avi danger is high for alpine right now and the slope above and on the way in is sooooooooo big...... just thinking about it makes me want to take another dump... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.