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Chilliwack Alpine


Dru

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Dru said:

Hello,

 

The alpine in Chilliwack looks more like Canmore right now.

 

There is fat blue ice everywhere!

 

wave.gif

 

Taking the "Canmore waterfall" style of climbing fat alpine ice when the valleys are not in....

 

Shaun Neufeld and I drove to end of Jones Lake road and bushwacked by headlamp for 1.5 hrs to a flat gravel terrace in a huge debris flow fan where camp was made.

 

Up at 6:30 Am because we both slept thru Shauns wrist watch alarm going off at 5AM.

 

Spilled boiling water on my bivi sack testing out my new cartridge stove. Hot but tippy.

 

Left camp 8 AM, Slogged and scrambled uphill for 3 hours on cliff bands and old growth and devils club to base of left side of Knight Pk north face. It appears I am out of shape

 

cry.gif

 

Soloed 120m of WI2 and then climbed a couple of pitches of WI 3 and some more WI2 above. Turned around about 75m of WI2 from the top of the ice flow (seeps out of a blank wall) after a warming trend produced some spectacular rock/ice fall.

 

Rapped and downsclimbed devils club and moss in the forest then slogged out. Back at the car 5:30 PM.

 

 

There are easily 25 multipitch waterfalls in this same 3km area from Stewart to Cheam with potential grades from WI2 to WI6 - however - due to warming many of them are falling down as we speak cry.gif

 

There is not enough snow for good alpine climbing continuations from the top of the ice to the summits yet...but there is no cornice fall to worry about either. thumbs_up.gif

 

We called our new route "Once in A Red Moon" 250m+ WI3.

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