carolyn Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 I noticed the side where I have the rope go thru most often is getting worn down....not uncommon. Its getting to a point where I will need to replace it pretty soon due to the edge getting too sharp. Ive only had the device for a year. ANyone else notice such quick wear on the reverso? Or maybe I spend too much time belaying. Quote
scott_harpell Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 i think technique has something to do with it... as does how clean your rope is. if you keep your hand to the side of it while belaying there is much more friction... if you run it down the middle there is much less friction. the dirty rope will wear it down much much faster... imbeded particles continually rubbing the metal... also not good for the rope. just a thought. dont know what your scenario is. Quote
snoboy Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 I have seen this on many people's reversos. Quote
Dru Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 belay the other way around or just use it for the alpine. the only thing it does better is autolock bringing up a second. i use a trango pyramid for cragging. Quote
carolyn Posted November 8, 2003 Author Posted November 8, 2003 scott_harpell said: i think technique has something to do with it... as does how clean your rope is. if you keep your hand to the side of it while belaying there is much more friction... if you run it down the middle there is much less friction. the dirty rope will wear it down much much faster... imbeded particles continually rubbing the metal... also not good for the rope. just a thought. dont know what your scenario is. The 'dirty' rope makes sense. My rope is pretty clean...that wuz until I spent a week at smith. Technique...not sure if I understand what you mean by "if you run it down the middle". I keep my hand on the side...and usually produce as much friction as I can. THat theory makes sense as well. I actually didnt notice it until someone pointed it out to me. It was a good eye opener that I need to be more aware of just damage to my rope and other obvious glitches in gear. Quote
carolyn Posted November 8, 2003 Author Posted November 8, 2003 My thoughts exactly dru....I should just use my plain ol atc for craggin. Use the reverso only when the situation calls for it. Quote
layton Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 atc and a gi-gi (not gri-gri) combo make the best of both worlds, weigh nothing, and you have less belay change over b.s. Quote
Dru Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 but then you have to carry 2 devices up a route Quote
layton Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 That why I'm not sending 5.12!?!?! Fuck, I'm so stupid. (the whole point is to have two devices butmuncher) Quote
Jason_Martin Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 (edited) Reverso's are awesome devices, but they wear out. I think they are the best device for bringing a second up and it seems stupid to just use it in one venue. And technique has little to do with it. The best thing to do is to treat the Reverso like a rope. When it gets old, retire it. I did the atc and gigi thing for a long time and I agree that if you're really worried about it, this is the way to go. Jason Edited November 8, 2003 by Jason_Martin Quote
layton Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 Jason, reversos work best if you belay the leader on the correct line (Birdland ) Quote
murraysovereign Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 Try the Trango B-52, feedback so far is that it works better than the Reverso, and is less prone to excessive wear. I've sold a ton of Reversos, and they continue to be very popular, but I am also hearing back from a lot of people that they wear quickly (this in Squamish, where dirty ropes are not as big a problem as Smith or Skaha). Quote
Dru Posted November 8, 2003 Posted November 8, 2003 B52 requires 3 locking biners to belay two second with, not 2. So it actually weighs effectively ~80 grams more than the Reverso when you factor in the extra biner. Quote
snoboy Posted November 9, 2003 Posted November 9, 2003 You can use a 2 locker + 1 non, so weight is not really big diff. Quote
murraysovereign Posted November 9, 2003 Posted November 9, 2003 And since you're climbing as a party of three, you can take turns carrying the extra 'biner so no-one gets too tired. Quote
cracked Posted November 9, 2003 Posted November 9, 2003 murraysovereign said: And since you're climbing as a party of three, you can take turns carrying the extra 'biner so no-one gets too tired. Quote
David_Parker Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 murraysovereign said: Try the Trango B-52, feedback so far is that it works better than the Reverso, and is less prone to excessive wear. I've sold a ton of Reversos, and they continue to be very popular, but I am also hearing back from a lot of people that they wear quickly (this in Squamish, where dirty ropes are not as big a problem as Smith or Skaha). So does the b52 work better for skinny ropes. That would be one reason why I chose one over the other. Quote
Jason_Martin Posted November 10, 2003 Posted November 10, 2003 The gigi works extremely well with thin lines. Jason Quote
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