specialed Posted November 6, 2003 Share Posted November 6, 2003 Can anyone who's done that first chimney/offwidth pitch tell me what gear you used? Did you need a #5 Costalot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted November 6, 2003 Share Posted November 6, 2003 hey pete... first pitch of lamplighter is burly! the chimney is well protected... tho keep an eye out for frost wedging on some of your options with this cold weather. 1 bolt near the top... i used a 4.5 cause i have one, you could get away without... then the corner above is steep and kinda hard. gear and 2 bolts to the first station... then hopefully youre plannin on moving the belay 30 ft right clipping the rack to it, and busting out up heavens gate!!!! you'll have ablast! -bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
specialed Posted November 6, 2003 Author Share Posted November 6, 2003 Cool. Thanks bro Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted November 6, 2003 Share Posted November 6, 2003 I wonder if you mean the OW/Squeeze just to the left of Lamplighter. I wouldn’t describe the first pitch of Lamplighter as either a squeeze or as an offwidth but the overhanging crack just to the left can be described that way. A couple years ago I ripped some huge pieces of rock from the left crack so the rating is up in the air. If I was leading it, I would definitely bring along some big gear. 4” would be a bit on the small side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
forrest_m Posted November 6, 2003 Share Posted November 6, 2003 lamplighter/heaven's gate thread from may Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted November 6, 2003 Share Posted November 6, 2003 DCramer said: I wonder if you mean the OW/Squeeze just to the left of Lamplighter. I wouldn’t describe the first pitch of Lamplighter as either a squeeze or as an offwidth but the overhanging crack just to the left can be described that way. A couple years ago I ripped some huge pieces of rock from the left crack so the rating is up in the air. If I was leading it, I would definitely bring along some big gear. 4” would be a bit on the small side. that thing looks desperate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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