Lamplighter

[specialed]

Can anyone who's done that first chimney/offwidth pitch tell me what gear you used? Did you need a #5 Costalot?

[bobbyperu]

hey pete... first pitch of lamplighter is burly! the chimney is well protected... tho keep an eye out for frost wedging on some of your options with this cold weather. 1 bolt near the top... i used a 4.5 cause i have one, you could get away without... then the corner above is steep and kinda hard. gear and 2 bolts to the first station... then hopefully youre plannin on moving the belay 30 ft right clipping the rack to it, and busting out up heavens gate!!!! you'll have ablast! -bp

[specialed]

Cool. Thanks bro

[DCramer]

I wonder if you mean the OW/Squeeze just to the left of Lamplighter. I wouldn’t describe the first pitch of Lamplighter as either a squeeze or as an offwidth but the overhanging crack just to the left can be described that way. A couple years ago I ripped some huge pieces of rock from the left crack so the rating is up in the air. If I was leading it, I would definitely bring along some big gear. 4” would be a bit on the small side.

 

 

[forrest_m]

lamplighter/heaven's gate thread from may

[erik]

DCramer said:

I wonder if you mean the OW/Squeeze just to the left of Lamplighter. I wouldn’t describe the first pitch of Lamplighter as either a squeeze or as an offwidth but the overhanging crack just to the left can be described that way. A couple years ago I ripped some huge pieces of rock from the left crack so the rating is up in the air. If I was leading it, I would definitely bring along some big gear. 4” would be a bit on the small side.

 

 

that thing looks desperate!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!