The best 5.10b crack in the universe?

[sexual_chocolate]

No man! The left side is HARD!

[sexual_chocolate]

BTW, I've seen Illusion Dweller mentioned a few times; am I the only one who thinks it's an awkward and generally unpleasant experience?

But Coarse and Buggy, now THERE'S a nice 10b!

[BigWallBigBallsRocky]

i thought you liked em HARD....

[sexual_chocolate]

Except Coarse and Buggy stole my nut in the lower section; if anyone's got it, give it back!

[Matt_Anderson]

Now Chocky, Don't go leading these people to believe you've done climbs that you haven't. (Athough ROTC is graded soft, it ain't that soft.

And whatever! - Illusion Dweller rocks.

[klar404]

Wholsome Fullback is in black velvet canyon, right before that climb with all them bolts on it. Dru, hand jive is pretty spot on at 10-b,ratingwise. And here's another one I thought of: Black Ice on the Negress wall in owens river gorge. Yes, there are crack climbs in the gorge. And this one is as slick as its name.

[Dru]

you are right, Sensuous Mortician is the one in Icebox I was thinking of.

As for Squamish cracks, White Rabbit (10b) on Smoke Bluff Wall gives the same difficulty of Split Pillar or Caboose in 8m instead of 50/25m. And it is rarely busy.

[Peter_Puget]

Am I the only one who finds Caboose awkward and not fun?

I agree with SC as far as Illusion Dweller.

In the old Beckey guidebook isn't Thin Fingers rated .10c?

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by Peter Puget:

Am I the only one who finds Caboose awkward and not fun?

---

Have you ever tried it stemming instead of laybacking?

Its kinda irrelevant now till they get the lower Malemute open again anyways.

[chucK]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Dru:

As for Squamish cracks, White Rabbit (10b) on Smoke Bluff Wall gives the same difficulty of Split Pillar or Caboose in 8m instead of 50/25m. And it is rarely busy.

---

So are you saying that climbing White Rabbit is just as difficult as climbing Split Pillar, or that Split Pillar is like 6.25 White Rabbit's without a rest?

Hey Dru, what would you think of doing the bone to six white rabbits?

[pope]

quote:

---

Originally posted by Matt Anderson:

Now Chocky, Don't go leading these people to believe you've done climbs that you haven't. (Athough ROTC is graded soft, it ain't that soft.

And whatever! - Illusion Dweller rocks.

---

ROTC with one or two P.A.'s is about 5.10d. Leading through is solid 5.11 (many times harder than any 5.11a I can think of). Illusion Dweller? I thought it was pretty good, nice and long, whatever. But I'm not sure I understand the fuss. Anyway, this Coarse and Buggy/ROTC chat is way "off-thread". You guys should be ashamed.

Mentioning great 5.10 crack climbs, I really like the flake at the base of the Grand (is it Apron Strings?). Come to think of it, most of my favorite cracks are in Squamish. I like the crack work there better than Joshua Tree, Index, and infinitely better than most cliffs in Leavenworth. Devils Tower has got some cracks (according to a rumor I heard).

[sexual_chocolate]

Haha! Illusion Dweller sucks! Everyone agrees with me, Matt Anderson!

And if you know the secret beta on ROTC, it CAN'T be harder than 10b!

Coarse and Buggy? You don't NEED any beta on that climb; just climb it, and have fun on the best 10b ever.

[Dru]

quote:

---

Originally posted by chucK:

So are you saying that climbing White Rabbit is just as difficult as climbing Split Pillar, or that Split Pillar is like 6.25 White Rabbit's without a rest?

Hey Dru, what would you think of doing the bone to six white rabbits?

---

I prefer to link up the bone to your mama

Both WR and Split Pillar are 10b, but WR is much shorter- more of a bouldery problem whereas the Pillar is a short crux (?) then an endurance (?) fest. If you stretched WR 6.25 times it might be much harder than 10b.

[kevin_page]

What, no votes for Valley cracks. I'll take Outer Limits and Lunatic Fringe over everything north of Indian Creek anytime. Come to think of it, I like climbing on granite better than sandstone as well.

[rayborbon]

Nevermind Peter. No time to take pics of every crag I see, then scan them ( I dont own a scanner ) then post them here these days. Maybe someone else will find it worthwhile some day. If not I will get to it eventually.