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Posted

Not to spill worms all over the floor, and I didn't see bro's slideshow, but...

Is it just me or does the idea of an alpine speed climbing comp. seem silly?

I know this russian thing is a tradition and all and lots of rad climbers have done it, even Henry Barber, but give me a break. Comp climbing for a lack of a better word, is fucking GEH. Isn't the point of climbing in the mountains to not compete at all, except maybe against yourself. I think the whole thing is really self-contradictory as alpine climbing implies freedom, self-expression, rebellion, and in the abstract -a complete dissonant lack of formal structure. All of which, competitions are inherently the opposite.

 

Anyway, that's what I think.

Posted

Chad was disappointed that he won the comp but didn't get to summit. So he summited the peak a few days later. That shows me his attitude.

 

I agree that there is some sort of contrived silliness behind these speed comps, but who could turn down a trip to the Tien Shen?

Posted

Speaking of "iron lung": Chad Kellogg was competing against a Kazakh who had been training in a pressure chamber to simulate altitudes of up to 9000m (!). Bubble boy only got third, though.

Posted

Wish I could have...but FF is kind of a long drive for me these days. Which is sad, because it's my favorite geear shop, along with PMS. Climbing shops in Southern Oregon are lame, unless you want a new set of quickdraws...

Posted

that was a great show. the peak he climbed after was incredible, a 4 mile? ridge above7000m.

 

i thought the race was pretty cool. i loved the pictures looking down the "course", super steep. and 7800ft up and down in 5:11, silly or not that is fast

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