JTree April 20 and 21

[bobinc]

Dru -- what was the Grit Roof like? We climbed on the other side of that formation one day and looked at the Roof on the way out.

[Dru]

quote:

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Originally posted by bobinc:

Dru -- what was the Grit Roof like? We climbed on the other side of that formation one day and looked at the Roof on the way out.

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its easy up to the roof, then about 8 feet of hand jamming. you swing body around and heel hook a flake over the lip, then get a hand over and rock up on the heel, then make a few OW moves up to the top. i couldnt pull the lip and dangled in space until i was lowered. of course i had just sprained my ankle falling off the start of Diamond Dogs, so... ( I got back on that one and sent it before taping up the ankle hence the huge swelling by the time i was on GR). still it isnt really a foot climb but mostly arm strength going out the roof. i got some good shots that were never scanned of it. i gotta go back and do that one!

[Peter_Puget]

JT has a bunch of grain fests. Whoever mentioned that Vogel’s star system was not always accurate was right on the money. Maybe if you state some preferences you would get better feedback. Here goes my off the short list of enjoyable 5.10 routes: (all 5.10) Dance of The Woo Li Masters, Black President, Desert Song ( first pitch only - second pitch is a bit scarier and harder but the quality climbing is short so it is not worth the effort), Rubicon, Coarse & Buggy (can’t remember if this is 11 or 10), EBGBs a bit scary on top if you aren't dialed into the faces, Exorcist, Decompensator of Lhasa (I seem to be the only to like this guy)

Best advice anyone can give is go hiking in the Wonderland!

If the weather sucks, Indian Cove often has better weather but the rock is much more decomposed.

[Chongo]

If you run into Chongo down there ask to go on one of the moonlight tours of the cave system under Gateway Rock.

[chris_w]

I just got back from JTree this weekend. If it is your first time down there, they have changed the roads around intersection rock. All the guideboods have the old layout. The main road now goes on SOUTH side of intersection rock. There is a day use area on the north side of the rock. You have to drive past the intersection and take a left on the next road to get into the campground.

I had the select guide and it workedout ok. I had a friend that was more of a Kayaker then climber so we stayed on easier stuff. Here is what we did.

Intersection Rock:Mikes Book (5.6+) 2 Pitchs, Gear Kinda awkward, not that great No anchors and top of first pitch You can make 2 raps with 1 60m rope from top

Overhanging Bypass (5.7) 2 Pitchs, gear This was fun and seemed easier then Mike's book 2nd pitch is short. Anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Need 2 ropes to rap off north face.

Hidden Tower: Single rope Rap, anchors at topWild wind (5.9), gear This was ok. One 5.9 move, but otherwise Fun.

Sail Away (5.8-), gear This is a classic. It was more sustained then Wild Wind and therefore seemed harder. I recommend this climb.

The Blob The Bong (5.4), gear My friends first lead, boring, not that gread.

Dairy Queen Wall One set of anchors at the top. You can also downclimb to the northwest. The anchor is over the 5.9. You can build your own anchor but you will need big gear #3 Cam. This was all gear, nuts work well in the cracks

Scrumdillyishus (5.7) - Ok ClimbFrosty Cone (5.7) - This is a really nice climbHot Fudge (5.9) - This is fun on TRDilly Bar (5.5) - One easy chimney moveMr Misty Kiss (5.5) - This is another good one [/b]Double Decker (5.6) - Not that great, do this one if you have done all the others

Echo Rock Walk off to the north, both are sport climbsDouble Dip (5.6) - Fun slab climbStichter Quits (5.7+) - Fun if you like slabs, I don't. There is a couple of good moves on this one.

Hope this helps.

[ 03-19-2002: Message edited by: chris_w ]

[miker]

Just got back from JTree myself.

The snow was impressive on Monday, yes I said snow!! But we still got a classic climb in that afternoon up in Indian Cove.

Due to the chill we spent our two days in Indian Cove and had fun on Pixie Rock, Feudal Wall and My favorite of the trip. Sweat Band on King Otto's Castle. An excellent 5.10c sport climb. Even though it is sport it was bolted on lead and the bolts are spaced quite far apart.

I go back in three weeks and am hoping for more warmth.

See ya thereMiker