Bug Posted September 23, 2003 Posted September 23, 2003 Greg_w and I went up the NR of Stuart via the glacier last weekend. The weather was cloudy Friday and we were not sure if we would wake up on Goat pass to climbing weather or not. The stars came out about midnight and it continued to clear the rest of the night. We got started about 7am and other than my falling on the water ice before we put on crampons, we cruised the glacier and ridge with our bivy size packs. We bypassed the Gendarme to avoid hauling and were on the summit about 2. No speed records were broken but we had a great mellow weekend of clean granite in alpine terrain. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/showphoto.php?photo=2093&papass=&sort=1&thecat=504 Quote
Sphinx Posted September 23, 2003 Posted September 23, 2003 Excellent. But why did you pass the Gendarme? It makes the entire route much, much better. Either way, good job. Wasn't getting past the schrund to the gully nasty? Quote
Al_Pine Posted September 23, 2003 Posted September 23, 2003 Sphinx said: Excellent. But why did you pass the Gendarme? It makes the entire route much, much better. From the report two posts above, "We bypassed the Gendarme to avoid hauling [...]". So was there any rime or icy shit up there? I've heard the bypass can be more nasty than the Gendarme. Quote
Bug Posted September 23, 2003 Author Posted September 23, 2003 Al_Pine said: Sphinx said: Excellent. But why did you pass the Gendarme? It makes the entire route much, much better. From the report two posts above, "We bypassed the Gendarme to avoid hauling [...]". So was there any rime or icy shit up there? I've heard the bypass can be more nasty than the Gendarme. We were back at the car at dark:50 anyway. But that is why were avoiding the gendarme with two 30lb packs. The gully was dusted and then filled in on the smaller ledges but the climbing was still easy and the pro was no worse than usual thru there. Very doable. Watch for the pins when you are first getting out of the gully. One is up about 30 feet, the next is 30 after that. The climbing around the snow went at 5.5. Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 24, 2003 Posted September 24, 2003 Sounds like a fun trip. Bug we should get out climbing since you lived down the road from me. Quote
Bug Posted September 24, 2003 Author Posted September 24, 2003 Cpt.Caveman said: Sounds like a fun trip. Bug we should get out climbing since you lived down the road from me. Good plan. There are lots of times I would pop out for a climb on a whim. Check your PM's. Quote
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