South Buttress of Denali

[erewhon]

Im looking for someone who might have some beta on the South Buttress of Denali. Seems like everyones slogging rather than climbing. Any help would be much appreciated.

[Marko]

I descended the SE Spur and Japanese Ramp a while back. Do you need info on that or for the true S. Buttress?

[ryland_moore]

Isn't the South Buttress a really long climb? Only a few parties have done it? If this is the one, then I know some folks who contemplated doing it this season that wqe met up on Denali this past spring, but after talking to the first ascent party, they decided to bail on it and do the W. Butt. I think they said it took the first ascent party something like 40+ days? If this is the route, then let me know and I can put you in contact with the folks.

[Ade]

The 1954 route on the S Buttress took the FA party a long time. Waterman gives atime of 14-28 days (10,300' and 12 miles).

[Dru]

what about single push style with no sleeping bag and 200 gu packets?

[forrest_m]

Two friends of mine did the complete s. buttress a few years ago (’96?), 28 days IIRC from the ruth to kahiltna base. sounds like the best part was being so acclimatized by the time they got across Thayer basin that summit day was an easy stroll. The worst part was the triple carries up the lotsa face, well basically all the load carrying. My impression is that neither of them would contemplate doing another route in this style. PM me if you want contact info.

[Alasdair]

talk to wayne hes been on it.

[erewhon]

Which Wayne? WW?

Anybody got beta on the 1954 route ie pic's of different parts/obstacles? Particularly on the Lotsa Face.

Planning to give her a go next season and need all the info available. Strange how little is available on this route!

Thanks!

[wayne]

Hello , I was on it in 88 . I was guiding folks there we came in from the Ruth and went to the head of the valley and up some wall I called the Gharwall( to keep with the Himal theme) It was a pain then {2 sections of 80 dgree ice)I dont know what global warm has done to it. Then up the Lhotse face whick was fierce hard boiler plate but not to steep. We got turned back by a snow pit we dug at peak 15,000 so I know nothin of the upper part excpt its goes on forever. I believe there is an article in one of the recent mags on the 1st asc and they took a weird way that hasnt been repeated I believe. It took my buddy scott Wollums 10 or so tries to do the S butt and every party I hear from did the Japanese ramp to do it.(which I know nothing about.

the route is Himal size and prolly longer than anything I have seen up there. Maybe pick something else?Or heck go for it and if you dont make it your still in great climbing areas

[joepuryear]

Climbed the complete '54 South Buttress back in 1996. Email me for beta/photos - joe at cascadeimages.com

Its probably the longest climbing route on Denali and one of the most incredible features in the range - well worth the effort.

Here's the face in question.

[erewhon]

Never been much for climbing simply for the summit, just was taken back by the few photos Ive seen and have been drawn to it ever since. Joe check your PM's Id love to get some beta if possible. Geeze it looks like an easy afternoon of skinning!

[wayne]

Great story in the sept issue-04 of Climbing Magazine.Its about the FA

[catbirdseat]

Yes, I saw that article. The pictures are amazing quality. They looked like a re-enactment.

 

Lotsa Face was a joke on Lhotse Face. Everest had been climbed by Hillary the previous year. Those guys chopped steps all the way up that thing. Thayer was the guy who was killed in a huge fall.