cappellini Posted September 18, 2003 Posted September 18, 2003 trundled some new dirt this wekend....stellar line around the right side of upper 8mile....from top of tallus follow the ledge to toe of "yo mamma's butress"...3 pitches, 5.9+, maybe a stitch harder....the obvious line where there is actually gear withourt wallowing up some stupid gulley, corner sytem and a great over hanging mantle to top of tower...................... the other up by the recurve in the tumwater....right of the gulley which turns into the recurve...follow the "amature tower, 5.9, 4 pitches" route up the cracks on the butress, keeping leftish, to the top of "the great bendarme"..there is some hummocked slab climbing on the bottom that may scare fat people... oh yea, there is another route near there worth mentioning.... up that slab left of recurve, hike up the lower junk till you are forced to start climbing.... "cherry up the middle, 5.9"...it climbs the cleanest part of the slab following the sparse gear placements and tree/bush belays...when there aren't anymore of these you will encounter a piton and a 1" placement anchor...continue up until you are forced into the recurve just below its crux (5.9+ pineneedle choked handcrack)...its a big sucker, like 1200-1400 ft...bring a couple knifeblades, otherwise you will find yourself a couple pleasant 200 ft runouts... Quote
Dru Posted September 18, 2003 Posted September 18, 2003 how dare you name and report these routes without scrubbing them or bolting the cracks Quote
cappellini Posted September 18, 2003 Author Posted September 18, 2003 we knocked as many rocks off as we could find and occasionally pulled some dirt down in our eyes....and i think ben even rubbed one off real quick at the top.....we left slings on the rap as well.....fixed gear and cleaning, there's your valid ascent!!!!! actually, i've decided to share, since there are a number of cumguzzlers who rap down and bolt shit irregardless of the suttle traces of better climbers who have actually gone up before them.....dru heres a good thread concept...........if rap bolting and cleaning is done on the way down without actually using direct aid or ones physical own strength to make upward progression, can it actually be considered climbing at all....for instance, i used climbing gear to string up a deer carcass in my gym for butchering, is that considered climbing???? Quote
Dru Posted September 18, 2003 Posted September 18, 2003 skjyzkzywski's limestone experience is keeping him alive on the granite now. "ya dude - it's bomber" Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 18, 2003 Posted September 18, 2003 oh yea, there is another route near there worth mentioning.... up that slab left of recurve, hike up the lower junk till you are forced to start climbing.... "cherry up the middle, 5.9"...it climbs the cleanest part of the slab following the sparse gear placements and tree/bush belays...when there aren't anymore of these you will encounter a piton and a 1" placement anchor...continue up until you are forced into the recurve just below its crux (5.9+ pineneedle choked handcrack)...its a big sucker, like 1200-1400 ft...bring a couple knifeblades, otherwise you will find yourself a couple pleasant 200 ft runouts... This one looks pretty damn good. You can see it before the Jupiter Rock\Drury Falls area. I have heard of some more routes up there but they never want to include them in the Leavenworth guidebooks even though some people are climbing them. Bummer. A little dirt and adventure never hurts anyone that is ready for it. Dangle more carrots :-0 Quote
jordop Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 Dru said: skjyzkzywski's limestone experience is keeping him alive on the granite now. "ya dude - it's bomber" "Man, you could put the belay in that crack there" Quote
slaphappy Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 cappellini said: we knocked as many rocks off as we could find and occasionally pulled some dirt down in our eyes....and i think ben even rubbed one off real quick at the top.....we left slings on the rap as well.....fixed gear and cleaning, there's your valid ascent!!!!! actually, i've decided to share, since there are a number of cumguzzlers who rap down and bolt shit irregardless of the suttle traces of better climbers who have actually gone up before them.....dru heres a good thread concept...........if rap bolting and cleaning is done on the way down without actually using direct aid or ones physical own strength to make upward progression, can it actually be considered climbing at all....for instance, i used climbing gear to string up a deer carcass in my gym for butchering, is that considered climbing???? Speaking of subtle traces... you didn't notice the ones on that upper 8-mile route? Quote
Szyjakowski Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 hey this belongs in the new rockclimbing forum...... slap- if yer talking about subtle traces on yer mammas buttress....i highly doubt you guys climbed the way we went up....i mean there were no bolts anywhere and lots of dirt. but if you are talking otherways up to the top yeah we saw some rapsling....btw- sent that crack the other day! Quote
Cpt.Caveman Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 Szyjakowski said: hey this belongs in the new rockclimbing forum...... slap- if yer talking about subtle traces on yer mammas buttress....i highly doubt you guys climbed the way we went up....i mean there were no bolts anywhere and lots of dirt. but if you are talking otherways up to the top yeah we saw some rapsling....btw- sent that crack the other day! A PRIME example of LOCAL ethics and climbers disagreement hehehe! Quote
Szyjakowski Posted September 19, 2003 Posted September 19, 2003 oh chriminey lets just drink some beers... Quote
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