Steve_C Posted February 22, 2001 Posted February 22, 2001 I am in need of a new summit pack and would appreciate your input/advice. I will not be using the pack for vertical ice, only alpine/glacier travel. The three packs I'm currently considering are; Wild Things-Ice Sack, Black Diamond-Ice Pack, and Cold Cold World-Chernobyl. Your commnents and suggestions on these packs and others that are similar in features and weight is appreciated. Steve C. Quote
Climzalot Posted February 22, 2001 Posted February 22, 2001 Steve, If you are looking for a true summit pack, Lowe Alpine, Serratus and a few others offer a light weight style summit pack which would fit into a larger pack quite much easier than the few packs that you had mentioned. Of the two models I mentioned I would probably recommend the Serratus over the Lowe for a couple of reasons. First it has 2 daisy chains and 2 ice axe loops where as the Lowe only has one of each. The Lowe comes with a removable foam bivy pad but you can add one to the Serratus for about a buck. Second the fabric on the Serratus seems to be a little more durable and it does a better job of keeping water out. Both models can double as a compression sack for your sleeping bag if you want to mold your sleeping bag into an unmanageable, unpackable shape. If you are not looking for a summit pack but rather a cragging/alpine pack I would look at the Arcteryx Khamsin series. Good quality packs that weigh very little for their size. Good luck in your search Quote
Rodchester Posted February 22, 2001 Posted February 22, 2001 Steve C, What do you mean when you say a "summit" pack? To me a summit pack is small, lightweight, and compressable. The idea is to fit it into a larger pack, when needed, and then use it with a light load to push for the summit, or to use it as a day climb pack. If this is what you are looking for, check out this pack. It is a Lowe Contour 40. Simple, lightweight, and fairly compressible. It is great for cragging as well and I have done some one-night soloing in the North Cascades with it. It has two ice axe loops and the ability to add more space by using the shove-it type pocket on the outside. It also is a decent ski pack. Volume = 2400 cu. in. Weight = 1 lbs. 14 oz. It is likely the best deal for the cash right now. It is on sale through Campmor for $49.97 at: http://www.campmor.com/webapp/commerce/command/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=8933&prmenbr=226 From the packs that you mentioned, it sounds to me like you are looking for an alpine climbing pack. These are usually around 2800 ci to 3600 ci, and have a light or simple frame (single stay or framesheet). These are great here in the Cascades. I have a TNF Jetstream that is 3300 and is a great alpine pack that is no longer made, very similar to the BD Ice Pack. If you want to go really small and light Arc'Terx makes some kick ass new packs. Also the BD "Bullet" pack is designed to be worn while climbing, it rides high on the back and is designed to stay out of the way of your arms as you climb. The Bullet can be easily hauled as its Ballistics cloth stands up to any kind of abuse. Weighs 480 g (1 lb 1 oz) volume: 980 cu in (16 L) Good luck!!! ------------------ Have a nice day. [This message has been edited by Rodchester (edited 02-22-2001).] [This message has been edited by Rodchester (edited 02-22-2001).] Quote
Guest Posted February 22, 2001 Posted February 22, 2001 If you want a pack to put on at the car and go all the way to the summit I'd advice BD over WT: just somewhat better overall. For a pack to put on at the highcamp for a summit dash - see Climzalot's notes above. To actually get a good pack for what you need go to the Feathered Friends *and* Pro Mountain Sports, you won't regret! http://www.promountainsports.com/ http://www.featheredfriends.com/ Quote
TimL Posted February 22, 2001 Posted February 22, 2001 I agree with Rafael. Go to Pro Mountain Sports if you are looking for a good summit pack. I purchased a light, well constructed La Fuma (red& black) pack this fall. It has worked great for quick one day and over night alpine climbs and serves as a good crag pack. The La Fuma has stood up to several serious thrashings and the fit is perfect. Check it out if you get a chance. Quote
none_dup1 Posted February 23, 2001 Posted February 23, 2001 My wife and I both have the Lowe Alpine Attack summit/compression sack. We put our sleeping bags in them and take them on trips like Rainier and others where we'll have a base camp then go for the top with very little gear on our backs. I've also used mine on day trips and found it to be fine except that the lack of shoulder strap padding (at least on our older model) is noticeable at the end of the day of you have any amount of weight in the pack. I took them both to Rainy Pass and had a second daisy chain/axe loop sewn on for second tools. I believe Mark Twight had a hand in designing these, so they are understandably minimalist. Our new favorite day pack is the Arc Teryx Khamsin 30. I've used mine five times this winter and love it. Very comfortable, light, and simple. We also have La Fuma 42 packs, and like those for slightly bigger loads. I've used mine on J'berg and N. Ridge of Forbidden and other 2-3 day trips of that nature. Compare it to the Khamsin 38. I agree that you should go to Pro Mountain Sports for all of this stuff, and think carefully about your intended uses. You can't have too many packs! John Sharp Quote
erik Posted February 23, 2001 Posted February 23, 2001 wild things pack does not wear very nicley. though materials and craftmanship is excellent. the cold world pack really skimps on the materials and the craftmanship is average. the bd pack is nice, though fairly heavy for a summit pack. the bullet pack is nice though it is featureless. if you want something like that i would recommend the bd zippo pack. very verisitile. though mike's shoulder straps are ripping off(over use probably) everyone is right about the summit packs. worthless really, unless you have big bucks and want to carry a whole bunch of xtra crap on the mtn. i once was a multi-pack owner/user, now i have streamlined and only carry one pack always. i personally reccomend arcteryx packs. i have the no zone now. this is the pack. techy, but simple. there is only one frame sheet, that can be replaced with the ridgerest pad folded 3 times. the outer materials are spectra cloth and retains very little water, unlike cordura. the compression straps are a little jingus unles you like to fiddle with them. excellent craftmandship and materials. plus as an added bonus, it is made in north america. in the end. try them all and find the one that fits your torso the best. marmot also makes some good packs. Quote
Peter_Baer Posted February 26, 2001 Posted February 26, 2001 BTW, Arc'teryx gear can be gotten fairly cheap in Vancouver (which is where it's made). I got a Bora 80 at Coast Mountain Sports last year for < US$200 (remember to get the GST back at the border). Quote
dan_e Posted February 26, 2001 Posted February 26, 2001 I think I found a decent alpine pack at REI in Seattle yesterday (spending my dividend check!) It's the Lowe Vision 40. I've been using a Lowe Cloudwalker II for almost 9 years now for summer and winter day use and it's still holding together with the help of a little seam grip. Lowe Alpine's quality has dropped since they made this pack, they used to be made in the US, but are now made in China. Anyway, this pack won't last a decade, but it's light and simple. This will now be my summer cragging and day alpine route pack and hell it was only $99, so if it lasts a only a few years I will be happy. I will post in the gear section after fully testing it. Quote
cmonster Posted February 28, 2001 Posted February 28, 2001 Okay, here's the real schiz nizzy from my point of view. I have used the Serratus Genie (Long) almost exclusive over the past 2 years. I have used it for 1 and 2 day trips over Stuart's N. Ridge. I have used it for a 3 week, late summer, backpacking trip in the Sierra. I have used it as my only pack on Rainier (August). Basically, I have used it almost everywhere. When did I not use it? 1. Rainier attempt in the winter. not enough room for base camp gear. I did use it as the summit pack on the attempt. 2. Ski mountaineering trips. No ski slots. 3. Friday night karaoke. No pack needed. This pack is actually comfortable. It took a few times for someone to convice me to try it, but once I did, I was a convert. It is the most comfortable pack I have ever worn which is saying alot considering I have a few McHales. I recommended this pack to a friend as a summit pack for his (successful) attempt on Denali last year. Upon return, he raved about the pack. "Carried it all over the mountain". It's LIGHT and packable. Plus, it only cost about $40 with shipping from MEC. So, even if you don't like it, you are not out TOO much dough. I have not tried the little Lowe, but I think the Serratus has more room. I have tried the Lafuma 32. It SUCKED. It was the absolute most uncomfortable pack I have ever worn. It just plain hurt. I lent it to a few friends and they absolutely hated it as well. Jim Nelson is the only one I have evern know who like the La Fuma. If your looking for a summit pack go SMALL. Quote
rayborbon Posted February 28, 2001 Posted February 28, 2001 I disagree ecoli-monster (Odwalla?) about your comments on the LaFuma42. It is a great deal in my opinion. You get a lot of room and it climbs well on your back without getting in the way. The one I have costs 99$ and is comfortable for me climbing on ice. I can put my crampons on the sides as well as ski poles too. 2 axe loops as usual. I used to have an Osprey that was twice the price now I know better... The fabric is super durable when compared to other hyped up brands. Look at the wear material on the bottom.. I like it. With all that it is very light too. Plus ask Rafael for a second opinion too. Raf doesn't you or your wife have one?? -Ray [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-27-2001).] Quote
rayborbon Posted February 28, 2001 Posted February 28, 2001 oops posted twice [This message has been edited by rayborbon (edited 02-27-2001).] Quote
none_dup1 Posted February 28, 2001 Posted February 28, 2001 I like the La Fuma 42, but have never worn the 32. The 42 was perfect for trips like Stuart N. Ridge, Forbidden N. Ridge, J'Berg NE Rib, etc. Just enough room for an overnight or two without a tent. I'll bet the Khamsin 38 is perfect for this application too. But neither of these is a pack I'd carry in another pack. That's where the Lowe Alpine Atack or maybe some of these other very simple light stuff-sack type packs come in. Go Lite might have something too. Good luck. John Quote
Colin Posted February 28, 2001 Posted February 28, 2001 I agree with cmonster. I have had the Serratus Genie for a couple months now, and it is sweet! The only place that I know of where you can buy it is MEC, but that also makes it 50 canadian bucks (even beats the Lowe Alpines)! I am absolutely amazed that cmonster used it for a three week trip - that is going light. It weighs about as much as a pair of mittens, and zips into its own lid pocket. Quote
Guest Posted March 1, 2001 Posted March 1, 2001 We have both Lafuma 32 and 42 - second year. I haven't carried either of them farther than Chair Peak or steeper than the gully up Night N'Gale and Synchronicity, or longer than a one-day climb but also always with the full ice climbing set including screws, a single rope and once additionaly with 13 pitons and accidentally put in Yosemite hammer. I never felt any discomfort and actually love the packs for the comfort, weight and the design. Running plunge-stepping down wasn't a problem, they fit snugly and securely. Never climbed with them on. The size (42) is for a minimalist but I always managed to carry the helmet, a 64 oz water bladder, an extra jacket, undeware shirt and gloves, 16 oz thermos, day's snacks and a camera - all inside. With the 32 the rope has to be put on the top with everything else the same but less space on top so smaller headlight is better. Have an opinion already but will report later on how it feels to climb steep routes with it on. My wife loves the 32 as well. Not a "summit" but rather an alpine, hiking, ice "cragging" or ski pack. Efficient design, somewhat older concepts though. Note that there are newer designs out there, mainly in how ice tools and crampons are attached. Quote
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