cman Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 word is that a couple of guys have been developing routes on Zeke's Wall. The only somewhat firm route report i have heard is a long bolted 12a. second hand info is that they have put up 8-9 routes. anyone have any more info, how hard, exactly where they all, that kind of stuff. i want to go up there and appreciate all their hard work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 (edited) A couple of scoundrels no doubt! I think the bolted line climbs an arete for almost a rope length and ends on a sloping ledge. Every time I have talked to one of those two guys for the past year he has been raving about it and others in the area. I haven’t been there in a few years but the route should be easy to find. Are you sure they finished it? Cman do you do a lot of bouldering? Edited September 8, 2003 by DCramer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RuMR Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 Who's developing up there? Names? I wanna get ahold of some topos... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cman Posted September 8, 2003 Author Share Posted September 8, 2003 I was up at gold bar bouldering on saturday. the bouldering is good, kind of tricky to find a lot of the stuff if you don't know where you are going. a friend who boulders up there a lot has run into those guys a couple of times. I want to check it out, but it would be nice to have some info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Norsky Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 This is all very cool. The potential is good up there, hope it's all done in good form and taste (yes according to me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 Has anyone repeated "Dwarf Tossing" to the left of Princely at Index? James said it was .11b, but he sandbags notoriously. There is a all-points-off dyno at the crux that is like six feet, from what I hear. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DCramer Posted September 8, 2003 Share Posted September 8, 2003 Here is a new Index route: Right now the first pitch of this route has not been cleaned completely, but I thought I’d post it here anyway since I think the FA party won’t be going back to it very soon. Bring extra 2.5” to 4” pieces Getting there: Go to the right side of Earwax Wall and climb up and slightly right to a tree. The route: P1 Traverse up and right to another tree at the base of a crack. There are two loose but fairly stable blocks on this section. Climb the crack to a ledge. Move right, then scramble up to an anchor. (5.8/9?) This pitch needs additional cleaning. 100' P2 Just left of the anchor are two cracks. Start up the right hand crack and move left when the going gets difficult. (I’ve seen this done several ways) The pro is a bit funky here. Follow the crack for 100’+ to a ledge. First 20’ are still a bit scruffy. (5.10a?) 140' P3 Easy climbing up a gully ends with an awkward move to the right. A couple of easy moves leads to the top. (mid-fifth class) 50' Getting down: Rap or walk off. The Back Road route climbs the first 15’ of the second pitch and then takes the obvious hand traverse to the right. It is probably not a good route to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Distel32 Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 MisterE said: Has anyone repeated "Dwarf Tossing" to the left of Princely at Index? James said it was .11b, but he sandbags notoriously. There is a all-points-off dyno at the crux that is like six feet, from what I hear. Was down in utah with Brent and Nic for a week and they said I have to do it. Nic said it was more like 12a. 4 boulder problems with 3 no hands rests and 2 dynos!? fuckin' awesome! I would love to get on it with ya misterE Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EWolfe Posted September 9, 2003 Share Posted September 9, 2003 Nic's a strong sumbitch, isn't he? Say Hi to him from Erik - we met at Vantage a coupla years back Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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