Mixup Peak - worthwhile or chosspile?

[dryad]

I got an invitation to go climb this sucker this weekend and was wondering if it's any good. Comment on anything and supply any beta you desire - approach annoyance level, rock quality, scenery, whatever. Also, isn't it kinda smoky out that way?

[AlpineK]

Scenery

Rock quality

 

approach....not too bad

[Alex]

The approach is casual: hike to Cascade pass, then slow rising traverse up Mixup Arm to Cache glacier, where a short snow plod gets you to Gunsight notch. Real nice views of Formidible and Sahale.

 

If the fires are still burning on Johannesburg when you go, it will be smokey.

 

However, it sounds like there might be some rain this weekend??

[pms]

I liked it, and thought the rock was good for the area, at least on the regular route from Gunsight Notch, up and across the ne face, to the ridge a short ways west of the summit. Pretty nice area, enjoy.

[Lowell_Skoog]

Be careful on Mixup. I've climbed it twice.

 

The initial pitch above Gunsight notch has fractured, loose rock. A few years ago there was a rappel accident there when the anchor used by previous parties failed. The middle section of the route is enjoyable with clean, solid, easy rock. However, the rock is downsloping with few cracks, so it's hard to protect it. A slip there would be difficult to stop. Fortunately it is quite easy. Finally, the route steepens at the top and the rock gets brittle again. In 1987 my friend Tom Wisemann died there on the descent. He had just rappeled from the summit and was pulling down his rope. The rope dislodged some rocks which threw him off balance (he was not anchored) and he fell the entire length of the face.

 

Be careful on Mixup.

 

[ncascademtns]

Lowell_Skoog said:

Be careful on Mixup. I've climbed it twice.

 

The initial pitch above Gunsight notch has fractured, loose rock. A few years ago there was a rappel accident there when the anchor used by previous parties failed. The middle section of the route is enjoyable with clean, solid, easy rock. However, the rock is downsloping with few cracks, so it's hard to protect it. A slip there would be difficult to stop. Fortunately it is quite easy. Finally, the route steepens at the top and the rock gets brittle again. In 1987 my friend Tom Wisemann died there on the descent. He had just rappeled from the summit and was pulling down his rope. The rope dislodged some rocks which threw him off balance (he was not anchored) and he fell the entire length of the face.

 

Be careful on Mixup.

 

Lowell is right.

That first pitch up from Gunsight notch is 4th class but I called it 4.13 climbing and the rock is !

Once on that it is flat until you get to what I call the Roman Coliseum - blocks of stone to climb, 4 to 6 ft at a time. Work your way up to the right and gain the notch to the west of the summit and than traverse east on an exposed knife edge.

This is a one time summit in my book.

[lI1|1!]

we went to climb it last year and found the moat at the top of the notch uncrossable or at least more trouble than it was worth. (we then tried to climb magic instead i think but accidentally climbed one of it's sub-peaks; what a mixup arrr arrr). anyway i don't know if that moat is always an issue late season. also i just heard joeburg is still on fire and it's really smokey at cascade pass right now.

[ncascademtns]

lI1|1! said:

we went to climb it last year and found the moat at the top of the notch uncrossable or at least more trouble than it was worth.

 

That's right. We had to drop 20 feet into the moat and than climb up to the notch. I forgot about that.