Jump to content
  • Announcements

    • olyclimber

      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

      Help keep cascadeclimbers.com going!  Please consider donating so we can keep this site going.   We have set expenses right now but no revenue.  We do hope to getting a sponsor to help out, but for now we just need funds to upgrade the site and pay for hosting and licensing. See the "DONATE" tab in the top menu.
Sign in to follow this  
Stephen_Ramsey

Forbidden Conditions?

Recommended Posts

I'm wondering about conditions on the northwest face of the north ridge of Forbidden Peak. From a photo, it looked like the snow bridge over the bergschrund was looking pretty thin three weeks ago. Anyone been on the Forbidden Glacier or North Ridge lately and can comment on whether the snow bridge is still there?

 

[Yeah yeah, I know I can just go up there and see for myself. But before carrying ice gear and rock gear and bivy gear over Sharkfin Col and rapping down to the Boston Glacier, I figured it only made sense to fish for a little bit of beta.]

Edited by Stephen_Ramsey

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Bringing this up to the top once before I head off to the hills, risking spray and heckling in the hopes of a bit of recent beta....

 

Has anyone seen the NW face of the Forbidden N ridge recently?

If so, is the snow bridge across the bergschrund still intact?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i don't have first hand info but there are several other worthy objectives on the north side (north ridge and nw face). moreover, the nw face of the north ridge is short and usually very straightforward (at most 45deg) and should not require too much extra gear that you would not usually carry for a trip across boston glacier. my $.02.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sphinx said:

Steve, you don't have to answer to EVERY REPLY ON YOUR THREAD. Waste of bandwidth, that is. rolleyes.gif

 

Someone with 1230 posts lecturers about saving bandwidth blush.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

At least my posts aren't as dull has "Thanks ___ for the info. Cheers, Steve" repeated a million times.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
scot'teryx said:

Gonna try for the ERD once again this Monday, anyone else heading up there this weekend?

 

Scott, was that you behind us on erd on monday? did you turn back?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That was us, and yes we did bail. We left the parking lot at 530am thinking we could do that route in a day. We lolly gagged too much.

crazy.gif

 

We bailed at the top of the 2nd gendarme (start of our 5th pitch?) since it was getting so late. Tons of booty up there for anyone who wants it!

 

16 hours car to car and no summit frown.gif

 

How was your climb?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

after doing the approach slabs, bullet proof ice, rotten gullies, and scree, it's too bad you didn't get to finish the route - it's really sweet.

 

we were going fairly slow too and hit the summit at 4:10 and back at the car at 10pm.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

those gullies, scree, slabs, and sandy benches absolutely drained us

 

that is the most exposed climbing I have ever done.

it will be there next year for us grin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah man, the climb was Candy beautiful just awesome

However, my BIG FAT SLOW ASS slow JJA quite a bit (u a fricking animal JJA)

But we made it…thanx JJ for putting up with my untrained east coast me.

cantfocus.gifsmirk.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

×