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Forbidden Conditions?


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I'm wondering about conditions on the northwest face of the north ridge of Forbidden Peak. From a photo, it looked like the snow bridge over the bergschrund was looking pretty thin three weeks ago. Anyone been on the Forbidden Glacier or North Ridge lately and can comment on whether the snow bridge is still there?


[Yeah yeah, I know I can just go up there and see for myself. But before carrying ice gear and rock gear and bivy gear over Sharkfin Col and rapping down to the Boston Glacier, I figured it only made sense to fish for a little bit of beta.]

Edited by Stephen_Ramsey
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i don't have first hand info but there are several other worthy objectives on the north side (north ridge and nw face). moreover, the nw face of the north ridge is short and usually very straightforward (at most 45deg) and should not require too much extra gear that you would not usually carry for a trip across boston glacier. my $.02.

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That was us, and yes we did bail. We left the parking lot at 530am thinking we could do that route in a day. We lolly gagged too much.



We bailed at the top of the 2nd gendarme (start of our 5th pitch?) since it was getting so late. Tons of booty up there for anyone who wants it!


16 hours car to car and no summit frown.gif


How was your climb?


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