Polemonium Peak North Palisade

[Cpt.Caveman]

Anyone ever climb the U and V notch couloirs? Look cool and not too hard. Are they junk or fun?

[W]

i scrambled up to the U-notch once...didn't go above because at the time I had never rock climbed. but thinking back, the pitch getting out of the u notch didn't look very hard. Rock looks pretty good too. Very scenic area! If you go there be sure and check out the Swiss Arete on Mt. Sill too- classic line, moderate, fun, at altitude.

[Zee]

Captain-

climbed u-notch in late may about 5 years ago. It was a heavy snow year so there wasn't much alpine ice on it - although there was no 'shrund to cross at the bottom. At the top of the notch it's low fifth class rock (good quality) to the ridge leading to the summit. A fun climb and usually great weather. There's also some other great climbs up there. E-mail if you need any more beta.

[Scott_J]

Yes, Cap. if you ever fucking listen to my back in the fucking 70's stories I have slides of the U notch. chickened out on the V notch when a car sized rock came screaming down the route and hit the glacier below. we did some other routes in the area. bring the beeer and your bubbling personality over. my Rott and Pit will enjoy your company

[Mike_Gauthier]

the palisades are awesome, i was just there this new years eve.

the route up U notch is pretty straight forward. if you can, hit it the route early (ie. spring time). it’s much easier then. there are 2 major routes up North Pal from the top of U notch couloir, (both mid 5th class). see the new high sierra guide by secor, it's pretty accurate. if i recall correctly, there is a 5.2 climb from U notch to the top of polemonium peak.

if you've got the time, check out the routes on temple crag. you'll pass it on the way to the palisade glacier, by 2nd lake. and mt sill (near polemonium) supposedly has the best view of any sierra summit.

oh yeah, the palisade glacier is very beautiful, but hardly threatening by glacier travel standards. if you're pretty savvy on glaciers, don't let this one bother you. W and i only saw 1 crevasse (which we EASILY stepped over.)

[Cpt.Caveman]

quote:

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Originally posted by sisu suomi:

Yes, Cap. if you ever fucking listen to my back in the fucking 70's stories I have slides of the U notch. chickened out on the V notch when a car sized rock came screaming down the route and hit the glacier below. we did some other routes in the area. bring the beeer and your bubbling personality over. my Rott and Pit will enjoy your company

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Back in the 70s

I have actually walked across the glacier about 5 years ago. Looked pretty mellow... Yes everyone seems to rave about Temple Crag. Although It looks nice I might not have the time. I was thinking about climbing them mid summer with shorts and seeing if I could get some ice climbing in..