Liberty Crack - TR

[wscottf]

Jeff and I did Liberty Crack two years ago in May. It was a 20 hour car to car epic, complete with wet pitches, untangling ropes on rappel at midnight and slogging through snow on top of the Bell.

 

This time was much better.

 

We started from the car at 4:30, at the base of the climb at 5:30, and climbing by 6:00. Jeff motored up the first A1 pitch and I jugged in a hurry, as I was shivering uncontrollably at the bottom. The sun finally warmed our bones at the top of the first pitch.

 

After three trips to Lib Crack, I finally got to lead the Lithuanian Lip; holy smokes its fun (and a real pain in the ass). After getting through the roof and bolt ladder to the top of two, I self belayed the A2 third pitch as Jeff jugged. I'd guess that this saved us about 30 minutes, which was great.

 

From the top of pitch 3 we swapped leads to the top, though I combined pitch 7 (A1) and 8 (5.9) into one long lead.

 

By the 10th pitch Jeff was back in his approach shoes, and decided to lead the 5.9 11th pitch in them rather than putting his rock shoes back on. Great lead, I was yarding up on gear the whole way, but then again I had the pack on .

 

We where back at the car around 6:30, making it 14 hours car to car. 6 hours faster than two years ago. Not bad.

 

Next week we're attempting Half-Dome Regular NW Face. Here's hoping for good weather and no one in front of us.

 

Scott

[Sphinx]

[Jopa]

 

Nice work!

 

Good luck on HD.

[billcoe]

Those 2 routes are at the top of my happy list when I think of my favorite routes. BTW: There use to be a shitload of big hexes fallen behind thank god ledge, just out of reach, a coathanger would snag them if they're still there.

 

Thanks for sharing:

 

Bill (former FH#1 X2)