daler Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 I know about the normal hardman linkups done by sig isac(sp) and such. But wanted to find out what others have done. Couple of fellas I know on Sunday linked the grand via cruel shoes and the chimneys-rock on/squamish buttress to angels crest to deidre. and they were enjoying cold ones by 5pm. I've linked the grand via cruel shoes to rock on to deidre to st. vitus dance to the smoke bluff conection. What other moderate link up have you done. dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 2 friends did angels crest squamish buttress and 12 pitches at the smoke bluffs in a day when training for alpine routes; i think doing the crest, buttress and ultimate everything would also be good. i have always wanted to link up st vitus, snake, diedre, sparrow and banana peel in a day but the partners have rebelled after 3 routes in terms of alpine linkups the way people are blazing on El Cap I am more than a bit surprised there have been no link ups of east side Slesse routes. peter croft did N rib and NE buttress in 3 hours each but I don't believe it was on the same day.... of course its a long trip from the summit back to the base without a paraglider Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Crackbolter Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 You could do Diedre and Squamish butt together. It makes all pitches 5.7 or easier except the buttress twin cracks which could be 5.9 A0 or 5.10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
snoboy Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 The "B-Line": Bottom Line -> Banana Peel -> Boomstick Crack -> Buttress. Friends I know did all the routes on the Upper and Lower Apron under 5.10 in a day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jordop Posted August 12, 2003 Share Posted August 12, 2003 Starbucks to Timm@ys to Brew Pub. It's grueling, but I've done it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 I think Rock On to The Ultimate Everything would be a good link-up. Linked Calculus Crack to Memorial Crack to the UE last summer. Something like 17 pitches with the hardest one as the last one, that traversing pitch on Ultimate Everything. Good thing I had some rope guns with me that day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 Anybody done the Borderline -> Angel's Crest hook up? That looks like it might be pretty cool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 No offense to many of the posters so far but I do not think one can describe things like Rock On to Squamish Buttress or Borderline to Angels Crest as a proper "link up" of multiple routes since they are a start and finish to a complete route. Squamish Buttress or Ult Everything in particular HAVE to be started by something on the Apron to get up there so by your definition every ascent of them would be a link up? Now for some linking quality, all four gully routes (South-South, South, North and North-North) in a day would be good Or Crap Crags to Echelon to Caramba Crags Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chucK Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 I called it a "hook up" not a "link up" Think of it as thread drift. Can you answer my question? Have you done that method of ascending the Chief? And btw, if you were a real weeny, you could do Sq. Butt or UE by first walking up the Broadway Ledges descent. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 no but i heard that the 5.9+ bolted offwidth is much harder than the 10d "crux" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chelle Posted August 13, 2003 Share Posted August 13, 2003 Dru said: No offense to many of the posters so far but I do not think one can describe things like Rock On to Squamish Buttress or Borderline to Angels Crest as a proper "link up" of multiple routes since they are a start and finish to a complete route. Squamish Buttress or Ult Everything in particular HAVE to be started by something on the Apron to get up there so by your definition every ascent of them would be a link up? Now for some linking quality, all four gully routes (South-South, South, North and North-North) in a day would be good Or Crap Crags to Echelon to Caramba Crags I suppose your right Dru, but if the Apron is really crowded it could be just as fast to hike up to Broadway ledge and bypass that part to get to either the "hook up" with Ulitimate Everything or the Butress... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 there are always non crowded routes on the apron. slab alley or sickle are usually the best bets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cairns Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Dru said: Or Crap Crags to Echelon to Caramba Crags Howsabout Crap Crags, NW Passage, NN Arete? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
susan Posted August 14, 2003 Share Posted August 14, 2003 Yeah, I've done Borderline to Angel's Crest. In fact, I've done it twice. I highly recommend it. It goes at either 11c or 10d depending on which variation you take on Pitch 2. Don't let P 5 scare you. It's a great pitch, bouldery gym moves, off-widths, and hard slab, something for everyone to hate! If you want more beta, let me know. Susan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dru Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 Cairns said: Dru said: Or Crap Crags to Echelon to Caramba Crags Howsabout Crap Crags, NW Passage, NN Arete? howsabout beating yourself to death with a big chunk of devils club??? probably just as much fun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwalling Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 I heard about a girl that said her favorite climb was N.N arete. This girl had done her share of climbing too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mneagle Posted August 15, 2003 Share Posted August 15, 2003 susan said: Yeah, I've done Borderline to Angel's Crest. In fact, I've done it twice. I highly recommend it. It goes at either 11c or 10d depending on which variation you take on Pitch 2. Don't let P 5 scare you. It's a great pitch, bouldery gym moves, off-widths, and hard slab, something for everyone to hate! If you want more beta, let me know. Susan Susan, you lurker you. Congrats on finally making your first post. I posted this thread just after we climbed it back in 2001. That was a good time. http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=60807&Forum=All_Forums&Words=borderline&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=60807&Search=true#Post60807 It really is a great line. Don't miss it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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