squamish link ups

[daler]

I know about the normal hardman linkups done by sig isac(sp) and such.

But wanted to find out what others have done.

Couple of fellas I know on Sunday linked the grand via cruel shoes and the chimneys-rock on/squamish buttress to angels crest to deidre. and they were enjoying cold ones by 5pm.

I've linked the grand via cruel shoes to rock on to deidre to st. vitus dance to the smoke bluff conection.

 

What other moderate link up have you done.

 

dale

[Dru]

2 friends did angels crest squamish buttress and 12 pitches at the smoke bluffs in a day when training for alpine routes; i think doing the crest, buttress and ultimate everything would also be good.

 

i have always wanted to link up st vitus, snake, diedre, sparrow and banana peel in a day but the partners have rebelled after 3 routes

 

in terms of alpine linkups the way people are blazing on El Cap I am more than a bit surprised there have been no link ups of east side Slesse routes. peter croft did N rib and NE buttress in 3 hours each but I don't believe it was on the same day.... of course its a long trip from the summit back to the base without a paraglider

[Crackbolter]

You could do Diedre and Squamish butt together. It makes all pitches 5.7 or easier except the buttress twin cracks which could be 5.9 A0 or 5.10

[snoboy]

The "B-Line":

 

Bottom Line -> Banana Peel -> Boomstick Crack -> Buttress.

 

Friends I know did all the routes on the Upper and Lower Apron under 5.10 in a day.

 

 

[jordop]

Starbucks to Timm@ys to Brew Pub. It's grueling, but I've done it

[chelle]

I think Rock On to The Ultimate Everything would be a good link-up. Linked Calculus Crack to Memorial Crack to the UE last summer. Something like 17 pitches with the hardest one as the last one, that traversing pitch on Ultimate Everything. Good thing I had some rope guns with me that day.

[chucK]

Anybody done the Borderline -> Angel's Crest hook up? That looks like it might be pretty cool.

[Dru]

No offense to many of the posters so far but I do not think one can describe things like Rock On to Squamish Buttress or Borderline to Angels Crest as a proper "link up" of multiple routes since they are a start and finish to a complete route. Squamish Buttress or Ult Everything in particular HAVE to be started by something on the Apron to get up there so by your definition every ascent of them would be a link up?

 

 

Now for some linking quality, all four gully routes (South-South, South, North and North-North) in a day would be good Or Crap Crags to Echelon to Caramba Crags

[chucK]

I called it a "hook up" not a "link up" Think of it as thread drift.

 

Can you answer my question? Have you done that method of ascending the Chief?

 

And btw, if you were a real weeny, you could do Sq. Butt or UE by first walking up the Broadway Ledges descent.

[Dru]

no but i heard that the 5.9+ bolted offwidth is much harder than the 10d "crux"

[chelle]

Dru said:

No offense to many of the posters so far but I do not think one can describe things like Rock On to Squamish Buttress or Borderline to Angels Crest as a proper "link up" of multiple routes since they are a start and finish to a complete route. Squamish Buttress or Ult Everything in particular HAVE to be started by something on the Apron to get up there so by your definition every ascent of them would be a link up?

 

 

Now for some linking quality, all four gully routes (South-South, South, North and North-North) in a day would be good Or Crap Crags to Echelon to Caramba Crags

 

I suppose your right Dru, but if the Apron is really crowded it could be just as fast to hike up to Broadway ledge and bypass that part to get to either the "hook up" with Ulitimate Everything or the Butress...

[Dru]

there are always non crowded routes on the apron. slab alley or sickle are usually the best bets.

[Cairns]

Dru said:

Or Crap Crags to Echelon to Caramba Crags

 

Howsabout Crap Crags, NW Passage, NN Arete?

[susan]

Yeah, I've done Borderline to Angel's Crest. In fact, I've done it twice. I highly recommend it. It goes at either 11c or 10d depending on which variation you take on Pitch 2. Don't let P 5 scare you. It's a great pitch, bouldery gym moves, off-widths, and hard slab, something for everyone to hate! If you want more beta, let me know.

 

Susan

[Dru]

Cairns said:

Dru said:

Or Crap Crags to Echelon to Caramba Crags

 

Howsabout Crap Crags, NW Passage, NN Arete?

 

howsabout beating yourself to death with a big chunk of devils club??? probably just as much fun

[bigwalling]

I heard about a girl that said her favorite climb was N.N arete. This girl had done her share of climbing too.

[mneagle]

susan said:

Yeah, I've done Borderline to Angel's Crest. In fact, I've done it twice. I highly recommend it. It goes at either 11c or 10d depending on which variation you take on Pitch 2. Don't let P 5 scare you. It's a great pitch, bouldery gym moves, off-widths, and hard slab, something for everyone to hate! If you want more beta, let me know.

 

Susan

 

Susan, you lurker you. Congrats on finally making your first post. I posted this thread just after we climbed it back in 2001. That was a good time.

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=UBB8&Number=60807&Forum=All_Forums&Words=borderline&Match=Entire%20Phrase&Searchpage=0&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=60807&Search=true#Post60807

 

It really is a great line. Don't miss it.