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Drove in on the 20th of July. Log crossing was fine, typical overgrown, tree slaps to the face, seep ass trail to the Price lake. The upper ridge has some snow on it, we camped below the last big rocky hump on some slab/dirt next to a snow finger that led to the glacier. Approach time was 3 hours.

 

Left camp on the 21st at 5:00 a.m. and started to head up the glacier. We were doing fine till the shrunds. We thought we could pick a line on the left side of them but it was too hairball. We ended up climbing some unpleasent 5.7 rock on the left of the shrunds and connected with the couloir in the lower 3rd of the chute.

 

Couloir got seep and thin, axe punched through a couple of times. We protected it with some pickets for the steep traversing to the rock. Got on the rock at 8:30 a.m.

 

Rock was pretty solid down low but got more loose as we approached the gulley. We took one old 60 meter rope and a bunch of booty gear we had collected over the years, in case we had to bail. The nuts were useless and would recommed pitons instead. Solid constrictions were hard to come by, but the climbing was not very difficult.

 

Summited at 11:30 a.m.

 

Started the long way down with several rappels and some down climbing. There are bail/rap anchors everywhere. Some shitty looking, some really shitty looking. We backed up about 40% of them and prayed during the other 60%.

 

All we kept thinking about was the shrunds. We did not want to go down the way we went up. We decided to go down the opposite side of the shrunds (climbers right). We down climbed the steep snow to the rock bench and found a one piton ancient anchor and rapped into the shrund and climbed out using the rappel as a sort/of top rope. The rope was soaked and dirty. The rappel was difficult and grose with all the shit comming out of the rappel device hitting my belly button then going down my crotch.

 

Made it back to camp by 6:00 p.m.

Back at the car by 8:30 p.m.

 

 

If you want to get away from the crowds, give Nooksack a try.

 

 

 

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