Newbie TR: Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier/South Climb

[Braumeister]

Party of five climbed the Mazama Glacier/South Climb Sunday 7/13 & Monday 7/14. Found this to be an exceptional route for new climbers looking for glacier experience and fewer crowds.

 

SUNDAY

We parked the Gear Bus (the rented Ford Windstar) at Cold Springs and began hiking at 3:00 PM, taking our time for photos and jaw-drops, arriving at Bird Creek Meadows at 6:00 PM. Due to the lateness of the day, we bivied @ ~7,600' instead of Sunrise Camp.

 

MONDAY

Woke @ 5:00 AM, roped up, and began climbing, traversing the lower section of the Mazama Glacier to gain the right side. Negotiated several small crevasses in this area with no difficulties.

Higher on the glacier larger crevasses were visible but all are obvious and easily avoided.

Made the decision to traverse the Mazama again at ~ 10,000' to avoid the steep ramp connecting to the South Climb while wearing overnight packs. Climbed around a small bergschrund before scrambling over rocks and pumice to join the South Spur. Dropped packs at ~ 10,200' and began the ascent of the South Spur.

Reached the false summit @ ~ 12:30 PM in windy conditions that prevented rest stops longer than five minutes. A large lenticular could be seen forming at the true summit so we did our best to hurry to the top, electing to use the switchbacked pumice trail instead of the booted-in snow climb.

Summited @ ~2:30 PM just as the clouds socked in the view, but got a dynamite summit picture taken by a couple from Hood River who were climbing with their pooch. Upon descending the first snowfield and gaining the pumice slope, the cloud cover blew out and made the descent visible.

Rather enjoyed the long glissade in perfect bluebird conditions after descending to Piker's Peak, though the summit continued to experience on-off cloudiness.

Arrived at Cold Springs for beers and clean clothes around 6:00 PM.

All in all, a great climb on a route that was obviously much more interesting than the typical South Slog.

 

RECOMMENDED.

 

(Also see my peak-bagging Hood TR on the Oregon Cascades page.)

[youngprofessor]

nice work there braumeister! congrats!!

 

i remember reading someplace where ol’ dan - reported about his adams “speed record ascent,” that there were 60 degree (!) slopes on the mazama glacier. for as many years as i’ve climbed that route, i can never remember SIXTY DEGREE SLOPES. The only way to find those kinds of steep slopes on the mazama glacier, is to purposely search out those little rolls and 4-8 foot places to spice things up—on purporse. But…to say there was SIXTY DEGREE SLOPES as a part of the route is just pure fiddle faddle…evidence in his own words that he hasn’t even climbed that flipp’in route—no less in record time.

 

anyone been able to find -’s mt adams trip report? i found it once…but like many of the articles and info that - posted…these things are mysteriously disappearing off the net. what’s he got to hide??

 

http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/threadz/showflat.php?Cat=&Board=rainierinvestigation&Number=160685&page=&view=&sb=5&o=&fpart=3&vc=1

[Braumeister]

The guidebook I read on this route reported 35 degree slopes on the Mazama Glacier and I concur.

 

Maybe 'ol Dan was climbing 60 degree slopes out of one of those monster Alaska-like crevasses that are all over this route...

[Attitude]

youngprofessor said:i remember reading someplace where ol’ dan - reported about his adams “speed record ascent,” that there were 60 degree (!) slopes on the mazama glacier. for as many years as i’ve climbed that route, i can never remember SIXTY DEGREE SLOPES. The only way to find those kinds of steep slopes on the mazama glacier, is to purposely search out those little rolls and 4-8 foot places to spice things up—on purporse. But…to say there was SIXTY DEGREE SLOPES as a part of the route is just pure fiddle faddle…evidence in his own words that he hasn’t even climbed that flipp’in route—no less in record time.

 

anyone been able to find -’s mt adams trip report? i found it once…but like many of the articles and info that - posted…these things are mysteriously disappearing off the net. what’s he got to hide??

You seem a little obsessed with this - character.

 

Have you considered getting a life of your own?

[CraigA]

youngprofessor said:

 

nice work there braumeister! congrats!!

 

i remember reading someplace where ol’ dan - reported about his adams “speed record ascent,” that there were 60 degree (!) slopes on the mazama glacier. for as many years as i’ve climbed that route, i can never remember SIXTY DEGREE SLOPES.

 

If you continue straight up to Pikers Peak (instead of angling around to the south route) and climb the "headwall" the angle there can get to approx. 60*.

 

I climbed Mazama Glacier a couple of years ago and we were going to do this variation, but when we got to that point of the climb the weather had viz down to about 100 ft. Look at it on the way down (weather was a little better) and it looked to be about 50-55 degrees. I'm attaching a picture that shows the approx. variation. The blue line is the standard Mazama Glacier route and the red dots show the "headwall variation".

 

Craig

Edited July 22, 2003 by CraigA