Utah desert in April

[Jarred_Jackman]

Hello all, I'm planning on heading to Utah the second week in April, I'll be there for a week and am wondering if anyone has suggestions about where to do. We're definitely heading to the desert, we're going to hike and climb. Just wondering if you had a week in the UT desert and didn't want to drive around a lot where you would go for the best hiking and climbing given the time of year. We're looking for climbing in the 5.6-5.10 range, welcome multi-pitch, but don't want any aid.

thanks

[genepires]

try doing some slot canyon descents in zion or other areas. I don't want to give one area in mind away as it is still pristine. But zion has lots of good slots to go down for a different kind of experience that is kind of like climbing. Sorry, very little free climbing to be had there unless you are 5.11 ready. Heck, red rocks is close though. Endless fuun routes there. Let me know if you want beta for red rocks.

[kevin_page]

That's easy, go to Moab. Great everything nearby, climbing, mtn. biking, hiking, bouldering and good food. Just don't go during "jeep" week.

[Matt]

Moab is very cool, albeit sometimes crowded. Try the Kor-Ingalls on Castleton Tower. Four pitches of killer climbing at only 5.9+!!!! Bring lots of fat cams and get there early. I also suggest climbing in Arches-- I think it's Owl Rock that goes at 5.8, one or two pitches, very cool. Spend a day at Pot Ash Road and a day or two at Indian Creek. Bring lots of cams and BYOB unless you dig 3.2!!!

[AJ]

I'd agree about basing around Moab. There is some good climbing in the range you describe in Arches and Pot Ash Road has okay warm-up routes (you literally belay from the bumper of your car though). There is some good backpacking in Canyonlands - check out the Joint Trail. On your way to Canyonlands you can check out Indian Creek, but not much to be had below 5.10. Take the cams and get acquinted with climbing sandstone. The best guidebooks to the area are a series about desert rock in the national parks. If you really want multi-pitch you should hone up on your aid technique though.

Mountain biking is great there and you might even get an early season run on the Colorado River. Should still be some snow in the La Salle Mountains if you want to cool off.

[willstrickland]

quote:

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Originally posted by Jarred Jackman:

Just wondering if you had a week in the UT desert and didn't want to drive around a lot where you would go for the best hiking and climbing given the time of year. We're looking for climbing in the 5.6-5.10 range, welcome multi-pitch, but don't want any aid. thanks

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Well you did say desert, otherwise I'd say Little Cottonwood and Big Cottonwood for the grades you're looking for. Here are a couple of ideas (I lived in Bicknell, UT).

1. Moab - The easy choice. Awesome biking, hiking, and climbing. Potash Road has the shortest approach of any climbing area in the country. Kind of sandy, biggest concentration of routes is 5.10-5.11. Indian Creek, possibly the best crack climbing area in the world, is about 40minutes to 1 hr away (depending on the amount of RVs) not much under 5.10 there though. River Road has bouldering and some adventure style stuff as well as Long Canyon. If you're up for FAs, Long Canyon has plenty of potential. Arches is on the edge of town and as mentioned already, Owl Rock is a fun 5.8 tower that goes in two short pitches or one long one, it sees tons of traffic. Kor Ingalls is probably the most climbed desert tower, goes at old school 5.9 (crux pitch 3 is runout 5.9 10" offwidth) located in Castle Valley, about 15-20 minutes from Moab to the parking lot. Here's a pic...Kor Ingalls hits the two prominent ledges and the offwidth appears as a dark corner in this pic.

CASTLETON

The Fisher Towers are about 20 minutes and Ancient Art (actually the Stolen Chimney route on ancient art) located there is THE coolest summit in the desert. Also, has one of the most nerve wrackingly exposed sections of climbing (actually walking on that section) I've ever been on. It'll go at .11a with the crux protected by cloesly spaced bolts, 5.10 A0 if you only aid the bolt ladder on the first pitch, or 5.8 A0 if you french free the bolt ladder and pull on gear a couple of times on the third and fourth pitch. The .11 section is short and actually pretty easy if you're decent with stemming and pebble pinching.If you ever wanted to climb in the Fishers (and they're beautiful, worth hiking out there if nothing else) but are put off by the legendarily bad rock, Ancient Art is your ticket. Here's a pic of the summit pitch..fucking incredible ehh! Canyonlands is close too (15 minutes to 2 hours depending on where you're trying to get anbd your vehicle) A couple more pics...Castleton form the Road and Ancient Art from the hike in.and

Another option is (and this depends on how much climbing vs hiking you want) the Capitol Reef area. There are some 1 and 2 pitch wingate routes in Cap Reef, mostly 5.10-5.12, but there's a cool route by bro put up called Biscuits and Gravy that's 2 pitches and goes at 5.8. The hiking is excellent there, and most of the climbing is not in any guides, go to the Capitol Gorge parking area and look up to the left at the ampitheater left of where the road turns to dirt. There are about 10 routes up there from .10-.13. A little ways down that dirt road past the pakring lot, on the right side is the Classic Handcrack...a 60m rope stretcher .10a that's mostly 5.8 with one little crux down low protected by a yellow tcu. If you're there and do the route Pussy bolt, be aware the the bolt has been chopped, take a 4.5 and 5 camalot, you'll use them. Close to Cap Reef is the San Rafael swell with lots of wingate lines, arches (check out Hondoo Arch and the untouched splitters around there) desolate terrain, free camping, rad biking etc. velvet Ridge trail right outside Bicknell is a beautiful and fun ride. Goblin Valley State park is right there and is the trippiest sandstone I've seen. Best place ever to eat shroooms and cool hiking. Here's a pic

Feel free to e-mail with specific questions. I lived in that area for quite a while.