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Conditions on Mt. Torment


jj221

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I'm headed out to Washington the first week in August for some climbing. One of the routes I will be attempting is the NW Glacier on Mt. Torment. Has anybody been up there lately? If so what are the current snow/ice conditions.

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I just had a good look at the NW glacier last Friday (6/27). It is completely spanned by an overhanging bergschrund. You should probably plan a different climb, unless struggling over an overhanging crevasse in order to climb a 40 degree snow slope appeals to you.

 

Interestingly, this schrund is not visible from Eldorado or any other easily accessible spot. Thus, you'll never know whether it is passable until you actually approach the climb.

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