scott_johnston Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Climbed E Face of Chianti (Rebel Yell) today (6/29). Would recommend that the next party carry a 13mm wrench to tighten the left rap bolt at the top station just below summit. The Petzl bolt is loose so is not properly expanding the sleeve in the hole. We used the righthand start as per Beckey book which is definitely more straightforward and less devious than that shown in Nelson. A couple of no 3 Camalots would not be too much on the 4" 5.10 section of pitch 5 and a no. 5 Camalot would actually allow you to protect the 5.10 moves on the second pitch. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alpinfox Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 SJ Thanks for the beta, that route is on my list. Did you give out a yell? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_johnston Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 I must confess to giving out a wee little yell after leading the 5th pitch. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 right on scott!!! hey whats the word on gato negro? repeats??? larry gave me a topo the day after u guys did it but i gave mine to geoff never to be seen again... got another one you could spare? tia-kevin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott_johnston Posted June 30, 2003 Author Share Posted June 30, 2003 Hey Kevin; The word on Gato Negro is zip as far as I know. Doubt anyone else has been up there. For what it is worth I can post the first page since it is smaller but I'll need help from Larry to shrink the file of the second page so I can post the topo on CC.com. In the mean time there is copy at the guide shop in Maz. Geoff no doubt destroyed his copy in order to raise the adventure factor when he ever gets around to climbing it. Recall that it went at IV 5.10+, 11 pitches, 4 pitches of 5.10 and a lot of fun 5.7/8 hand cracks. The splitter crack direct finish pitch is still awaiting an ascent as we wimped out to the scary 5.6 finish due to the hour. We left the car at 5am and got back at 10pm. Route lies on west face of Silver Star N ridge right of the wine spires on it's own separate tower we named Whine Spire since our feet were giving us serious fits at the end. Descent is down the big gully seperating the Whine Spire form Silver Star to the S. It appears to still have snow which I would say is necessary for a fast safe descent. Would love to hear from others who go there. I'll work on posting the topo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rastus Posted June 30, 2003 Share Posted June 30, 2003 Very nice. We were the party of three at the col. On our way back from Silver Star we saw you guys up high - looked like good times... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 hey thanx scott... kevin see ya around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 scott_johnston said: Hey Kevin; The word on Gato Negro is zip as far as I know. Doubt anyone else has been up there. For what it is worth I can post the first page since it is smaller but I'll need help from Larry to shrink the file of the second page so I can post the topo on CC.com. In the mean time there is copy at the guide shop in Maz. Geoff no doubt destroyed his copy in order to raise the adventure factor when he ever gets around to climbing it. Recall that it went at IV 5.10+, 11 pitches, 4 pitches of 5.10 and a lot of fun 5.7/8 hand cracks. The splitter crack direct finish pitch is still awaiting an ascent as we wimped out to the scary 5.6 finish due to the hour. We left the car at 5am and got back at 10pm. Route lies on west face of Silver Star N ridge right of the wine spires on it's own separate tower we named Whine Spire since our feet were giving us serious fits at the end. Descent is down the big gully seperating the Whine Spire form Silver Star to the S. It appears to still have snow which I would say is necessary for a fast safe descent. Would love to hear from others who go there. I'll work on posting the topo. Dont shrink shit if you dont want to. I can post it here for you without the restrictions. Send personal message. I am interested in the line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cpt.Caveman Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 All route information and topos directly created by Scott Johnston of http://www.ncmountainguides.com/ncmtnguides/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
erik Posted July 1, 2003 Share Posted July 1, 2003 fuck colorado!!! scott looks like a great line.... i think danimal and i have our next objective....lunger, get the albatross..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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