Fence_Sitter Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 i droped the 'rents off at sea-tac at 5:00 AM and headed up to meet bob peru at the pass... we headed up (didn't forget the other 1/3 of the rasta bivy this time!) and got there in about 2 hours... saw a great line and took it... access into the route involved going under a snowfield and a tight exit which BARELY got us through the other side... we then started up the (iguess) north west face of paisano and got some great climbing up to 5.10 lots of dark lichen everywhere. one pitch was an undercling flake with nothing for friction but black lichen. this route arches from just above the base of teh ridge (150 ft above base) up and left... great line... wondering if it had been done before... we then descended from the summit to the col and did burgandy. gotta love that OW near the top! we did it in 2 pitches with a good deal of simulclimbing... back at the car at 5:00 and stopped at Good Food in marbelmount... great route with a great partner! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Billygoat Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 Ahh shit that sounds sweet Cheers! Â BTW is Bobbie that guy with the fucked up teeth? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted June 24, 2003 Author Share Posted June 24, 2003 no its bobbyperu on this site... and it was a sweet route... started raining as we came up the last little scramble... felt soooo good! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 whattup, fence? yeah that was a good time, fun to just go out and scope a good lookin line then charge, and have it all come together, das ist good, ja? wine spires rock!!! was a blast climbing with you, how are you surviving today? anyway take it ez oh and billygoat, i don't gots fucked up teeth, but check out david lynch's "wild at heart" fuckin amazing movie... then you'll meet the real bobby peru, i'm just frontin' this dudes the real deal oh yeah and if anyone wants to go check this line out, it starts right@ the notch where the w. ridge starts and climbs from right to left. first pitch turns a corner to climb a cool steep hand crack, then up more cracks to a stance below a orange roof(seen from below) 60m or more, next pitch goes out left on face with small cracks then up and crosses over the dihederal route "rampage" then heads toward the skyline, follow great cracks up to a small roof and turn it to the right via tips undercling to good cracks around the blind corner, with a belay stance directly right by a small tree. 60+m next pitch climbs directly up via awesome hand sized cracks to an offwidth with a crux bulge, then more good cracks and a final clean stemming chimney 60m. good stuff, really not all that dirty or loose, considering. this nw face on paisano is home to one or two established ie: publisized routes, rampage- burdo/ white has a classic dihederal but was pretty overgrown when we did it a few years back, nut tool 4 leader, and had some exagerated "classic" features, but there are many lines around that look good, go checkit out! a much better start to burg, then hiking up the gravel and the loose first pitch of the regular route ,imho, also don't miss out on the squezze chimney high up on burg, pretty rowdy but clean and a classic feature. anyway a pretty ruff day at the office fuckin mondays -bp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thelawgoddess Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 Fence_Sitter said: one pitch was an undercling flake with nothing for friction but black lichen. Â fun. nice job, boys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr._Natural Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 werd up roofless Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 24, 2003 Share Posted June 24, 2003 BP- rampage is dirty? or just a little licheney? -jamn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 25, 2003 Share Posted June 25, 2003 Szyjakowski said: rampage is dirty? or just a little licheney? does anyone know for that matter......... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fence_Sitter Posted June 25, 2003 Author Share Posted June 25, 2003 Szyjakowski said: Szyjakowski said: rampage is dirty? or just a little licheney? does anyone know for that matter......... Â it looked to be just licheny... and the lichen is actually pretty good friction... the rock was pretty clean even on the untouched stuff... but lichen is rampant... i would assume the same is true with rampage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted June 25, 2003 Share Posted June 25, 2003 hey whattup skuz?.. u lookin to do rampage? uhh when i did it i remeber there being clumps o' gunge in the thin crack thru the dihederal, poss, b/k the corner is a drainage... the pitch after the corner, the "handcrack" was bunk, the route would have a few good pitches if climbed more, i'd say go up there with an open mind, and have at whatteva looks good... rampage is the obvious line but as we discoverd, not the best...imhfao, hope this info helps -bp(chump) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Szyjakowski Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 fuk rampage. did barberpole and cleanbreak. nice and sunny....... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobbyperu Posted June 27, 2003 Share Posted June 27, 2003 good call brotha! barberpole is fun huh? good exposed climbing never hard, always interesting, and way fun when you sweep around onto the upper east face of libbell, , wanna climb over the weekend?, gots mornings and early afternoons free, will be upin... peace. -BP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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