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Posted

We did the aid sections with minimal nailing (bugaboos and lost arrows) and I have read reports of it going hammerless. The usual tools are helpful; offset Aliens, HB Offset brass nuts, cam hooks, a few hooks esp in larger sizes.

Posted

did this route in 95. a lot of it goes free, just a few aid sections, pitch 2 (just the start) and double roof pitch. the (getting to the first goes at 10+). we started climbing @ 8 and finished about 10pm. have fun

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It can totally go clean. I found a cam hook to be quite useful on the second pitch (listed as A3, but really A2 with all the fixed gear). The 4th picth, which Selected Climbs says to use pitons, can go clean with a 0 tcu and some small wires.

 

Gaining the 8th pitch before dark can be tough (I got there after midnight) but it's comfy. The top of 6 is about the size of the tailgate of a pick up, so you'll be sitting all night.

 

I've posted a route description on SummitPost.com, check it out and have a great trip. It's really a wonderful route.

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