Prussik South Face "other" route

[512dude]

Thinking of doing the other south face route on Prussik (the Becksy-Davis route not the Burgner-Stanley) and want to know how it compares to the later. Any opinions?

[Szyjakowski]

Just as good and classic as well. should be climbed way more. Last pitch is way better too.

[j_b]

the beckey-davis has nice hand sized cracks. it seemed there were several ways to go, just pick the better looking one.

 

imo the best line on the south face is the following: alternate start ~40ft to west of Beckey wide crack (up 2 steep parallel thin hand cracks, ~mid-10), meet burgner-stanley and follow for 1.5 pitch to left side of snafflehound ledge, from snafflehound follow right-rising shallow crack-ramp to a knobby face to a corner (mid-10), follow corner crack (hands) for ~2 pitches to summit (.9)

[Szyjakowski]

man there are many other crack systems that rival anything on the standard routes for best line....give them a try..

[Jarred_Jackman]

I think you might have to pay me to do the Beckey route again. I did it a few years back and it really sucked. There is a lot of foliage, sandy pebbly ledges, only two good pitches in all, one fingers and one fists (they're quite fun). For the hike in, I thought the route was the worst I had done ever. Sure it's granite, sure there's two good pitches, but I would honestly rather stay home than do that whole deal again. I'd do the other south crack or the west ridge though.

[Szyjakowski]

Jarred_Jackman said:

I think you might have to pay me to do the Beckey route again. I did it a few years back and it really sucked. There is a lot of foliage, sandy pebbly ledges, only two good pitches in all, one fingers and one fists (they're quite fun).

wow. I seam to remember a few hand cracks in there somewhere too. perhaps one of us was off route. But, then why did i climb it more than once. Oh, perhaps cuz it was great just like the stanley burgner. I think both climbs are like apples and oranges...kinda like orbit and outerspace.....But then what do i know; I am just an unempolyed dirtbag climber.

oh, just go try it for yourself 512dude

[Cpt.Caveman]

I've done it too a few years ago. It's a fine route with stellar hand crack pitches. It's got goot ledge belays and I have to chime in with shitkowski that the final 20 feet of thin hand crack is stellar. 5.9 my ass - felt a little like that Libra crack at index in some ways (I hung on gear). if you have thin hands the better. The headwall above snafflehound ledge is killer and exposed.