PLC Posted June 8, 2003 Posted June 8, 2003 Did Coleman-Demming. Left car around 8am. Back to car around 7pm. Snow could not have been better for walking. Trail is pretty much snow free all the way to the turn off for the "hogback moraine". Great skiing and/or glissading. A few very thin crevasses to cross, many climbers did not wear ropes. All the north side routes looked good to me. Quote
Bob_Clarke Posted June 8, 2003 Posted June 8, 2003 Good job! Nice one day time as well. How was getting accross the river? I was there a few weeks ago and everyone was getting completely bathed trying to cross. Quote
whiplash Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 Did the NR on Saturday, crossing the Coleman was straight foward, some soft snow on the direct approach to the ridge but nice steps, ice pitches are in excellent shape. Going down the Coleman/Deming was a slog but the long glissade's made it fast. Super fun route Quote
mvs Posted June 9, 2003 Posted June 9, 2003 I echo the sentiments of Whiplash. Three of us climbed the NR today, from a trailhead bivy. It was the first summit of Baker for us, and what a spectacular route! The night was very warm, and we had some worries about what the snow/ice would be like up high. The conditions were perfect though. We took the direct approach to the ice cliff, making use of the same good boot path (thanks whoever!). The ice pitches were great. We took an "enticing" traverse under a serac, and ended up in dripping, rotting serac hell for two pitches after the initial very fine ice pitch. It added to the challenge and excitement, especially when a cool traverse of a serac wall led back to the crest of the ridge. Advice - stay on the crest during that steep section. The descent was lame. We were tired and hated the postholing down the Roman Wall. It was like the sun was on 10x power down to 6000 feet, where we could really glissade. Shade in the forest felt great. Oh, I did glissade right over a crevasse and got a new gray hair, so that was ill-advised. We started at 1 am, reached the summit at 12 noon, and reached the car at 4 pm. Thanks to friends, previous step-kickers, etc! Quote
PLC Posted June 9, 2003 Author Posted June 9, 2003 How was getting accross the river? I was there a few weeks ago and everyone was getting completely bathed trying to cross There were two significant streams, both easier in the morning, obviously. The first is passible with care; the second you might get by in the morning, but afternoon, you will get water in your boots. At least if the weather stays anything like this.... Quote
To_The_Top Posted June 10, 2003 Posted June 10, 2003 PLC said: How was getting accross the river? I was there a few weeks ago and everyone was getting completely bathed trying to cross There were two significant streams, both easier in the morning, obviously. The first is passible with care; the second you might get by in the morning, but afternoon, you will get water in your boots. At least if the weather stays anything like this.... I was with a friend Sunday on a one day climb of the CD route and yes the second stream was running quite strong, managed to cross it in the middle of the night without getting wet. There was a crevasse just opening up at 8800' that you could circumnavigate. People were falling in part way , thinking it was just soft snow in that spot. Great conditions on the route. TTT Quote
crusty_climber Posted June 13, 2003 Posted June 13, 2003 I was scared. Very scared. But the descent was not LAME. It was refreshing! The steps were already there by an uknown party. Here's my photos Quote
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