Ptarmigan Traverse direction and peaks

[JoshK]

Hey, for all of you that have done the ptarmigan traverse, did you go north->south, or south->north? From what I can tell, it seems north->south is the more popular direction to go. Is there a particular reason why one direction is more preferred?

 

Also, what all peaks are easily bagged with minimal gear? I'd like to get away with a lightweight rope and probably just a picket a piece, so anything that doesn't require rock pro or a second tool is good.

[Jim]

Leaving from Cascade Pass is generally more popular because you can scout the north-facing glaciers before going up. Going in from Dome Peak can be a bit trickier in later season going down the north-side glaciers trying to route-find. Though if you're experience it's not that big a deal.

 

I would advise you to take you're time while doing the traverse and camp up high when possible. We spent a few nights at the high passes and it was beautiful. We saw these two guys going from Dome to Cascade Pass with minimal gear, just a tarp, a little climbing gear. They were a bit green but were having the time of their lives.

 

Personally I would not go without a tent - especially after being tent bound for several days on earlier attempts. IMO minimal gear is needed. I don't remember the need for a rope (once offf glaciers) on Magic, Spider, Formidible, those two in the middle I can't remember, and Dome. Good luck.

[Szyjakowski]

plus hiking up Downey and Bachelor ck would suck..easy down tho

[ski_photomatt]

I'll second what Jim said. We did it in early september when the glaciers were pretty broken up and being able to see and pick our route through the crevasses was a tremendous help. Plus, as you already experienced it's a lot easier going out from Dome than going in.

 

If the weather really craps out and you decide to bail after a day or two, it's easier to bail back to Cascade Pass too.

 

[JoshK]

Cool, thanks for the advice guys. This backs up exactly what I was thinking, esp. in regards to going up that hellhole that is downkey+bachelor creek. I'd rather do that in a delierious daze than have to start out the trip on that admittidely bad note.

 

Another question for those more familliar with the route: Do you think this year's meager snow pack will have a negative impact on the ability to ski the route? I'm thinking most of it is above 5k so early-mid june should still be good for skiing, even this year. I would assume the low spots (basically the exit and exterance) are walked most years anyway, huh?

[ski_photomatt]

I think our higher elevation snowpack is doing quite well right now. Well, we'll see if the warmth of the next few days lasts long. I'd imagine this would be a good ski route for a few more weeks.

[tshimko]

Great view of S Cascade Glacier from LeConte.

Sentinel and Old Guard are easy too.

 

I've done the bivy bag, but a tent is nice if weather looks iffy.

 

I'll be in there in mid Aug, will do a N side route on Formidable (btw the view of formidable just after traversing the red ledge gets my vote for one of the best in the N Cascades) and N side of Sinister (well, and Dome again I guess....nice short easy but quite airy traverse out to its summit).

 

[Ned_Flanders]

The view of the dome cirque from lizard pass as your crest above the south cascade glacier makes going north to south all the better.

[meganerd]

To the dude who wants to ski it...

I climbed Sahale today (6/6) and there is something you should know about. Probably three big avalanches came down off of Mixup Peak right over the route from Mixup Arm to Cache Col. I think the snowpack is sliding off from the big slab near the summit. There is still more up there too, so get a real early start the first day and get through there before the sun hits it. The first slide I saw was probably at 6:30 or 7:00 in the morning, although it has been unusually warm at night recently.

[marek]

for those that done the traverse. where would i find good

description of the route ? something more than beckey.

i know already the way up and down of dome pk, and agree that bit of bushwalk sucked on the way home.

what is the real duration 5 or 7 days?? we have done dome pk in 2 days as a measure.